Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches
FA: Mike Fischesser, Henry Browning in 1984
Page Views: 4,295 total · 24/month
Shared By: Luke Alford on Oct 14, 2008
Admins: Ky Bishop, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Falcon Closure 2023 (May update) Details


P1: Head up the apron and climb a few 5.9 water groove moves past 3 bolts over a bulge. Scamper up low angle water groove (could finagle some small gear if desired) to a double bolt anchor (5.9, 200'). NOTE: if you start left of the tree against the rock, you'll come up a bit short with a 60m rope and have to simulclimb about 10-15'. Start from higher ground to the right and this shouldn't be an issue.

P2: Continue up steeper, fun, and fairly sustained water groove past many bolts (maybe 10? recently replaced and in good condition) interspersed with some pods that take hand size cams. Some fairly tense sequences (with good protection) and a few good rests lead to another double bolt anchor (5.9+, 175'). NOTE: the hangers on the third bolt and one of the anchor bolts are loose and could be unscrewed easily by hand. A wrench would be nice to crank those nuts down.

P3: Fun climbing up a very featured face to the right of the groove past some marginal small gear to a bolt. Continue back in the now less sustained groove past another bolt and a couple of cam placements. Tiptoe around or over the large and hollow sounding flake, clip one last bolt, and head for the anchors on easier terrain next to the Manatee feature (5.9, 160').

P4: Pick your choice of diverging water grooves and head for the finish. The left one looks unprotected (didn't go that way), the right one has an oddly placed old bolt right of the groove and some gear options (try not to slip on the lichen) (5.8+, 120').


Approach: This route is on the right side of the main wall. Follow the well marked CCC trail. When headed down the final 600' descent from the kiosk, duck through the trees at the first apron that's fairly visible just before reaching the developer trail along the base of the cliff. You will see a tree with a rotting branch running into the apron slab. The groove comes down at about this point and heads up and right of the large granite bulge that looks kind of like a Manatee (about 500' up or so). If you hop off onto the developer trail, you've gone too far.

Descent: Rap the route.


Mostly bolts (3 on P1, 10 or so on P2, 3 on P3, 1 on P4), set of cams, tricams.