Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Mike Fischesser, Henry Browning in 1984
Page Views: 3,321 total · 26/month
Shared By: Luke Alford on Oct 14, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

P1: Head up the apron and climb a few 5.9 water groove moves past 3 bolts over a bulge. Scamper up low angle water groove (could finagle some small gear if desired) to a double bolt anchor (5.9, 200'). NOTE: if you start left of the tree against the rock, you'll come up a bit short with a 60m rope and have to simulclimb about 10-15'. Start from higher ground to the right and this shouldn't be an issue.

P2: Continue up steeper, fun, and fairly sustained water groove past many bolts (maybe 10? recently replaced and in good condition) interspersed with some pods that take hand size cams. Some fairly tense sequences (with good protection) and a few good rests lead to another double bolt anchor (5.9+, 175'). NOTE: the hangers on the third bolt and one of the anchor bolts are loose and could be unscrewed easily by hand. A wrench would be nice to crank those nuts down.

P3: Fun climbing up a very featured face to the right of the groove past some marginal small gear to a bolt. Continue back in the now less sustained groove past another bolt and a couple of cam placements. Tiptoe around or over the large and hollow sounding flake, clip one last bolt, and head for the anchors on easier terrain next to the Manatee feature (5.9, 160').

P4: Pick your choice of diverging water grooves and head for the finish. The left one looks unprotected (didn't go that way), the right one has an oddly placed old bolt right of the groove and some gear options (try not to slip on the lichen) (5.8+, 120').

Location

Approach: This route is on the right side of the main wall. Follow the well marked CCC trail. When headed down the final 600' descent from the kiosk, duck through the trees at the first apron that's fairly visible just before reaching the developer trail along the base of the cliff. You will see a tree with a rotting branch running into the apron slab. The groove comes down at about this point and heads up and right of the large granite bulge that looks kind of like a Manatee (about 500' up or so). If you hop off onto the developer trail, you've gone too far.

Descent: Rap the route.

Protection

Mostly bolts (3 on P1, 10 or so on P2, 3 on P3, 1 on P4), set of cams, tricams.

Photos

Luke Alford
Atlanta, GA
  5.9+
Luke Alford   Atlanta, GA
  5.9+
I don't know anything about the history of this route. If someone can tell me about it, I'll make sure to put in the FA and such. This past weekend was my first trip to LK and this was the only long route we had time to do. It's definitely a route worth doing and goes down pretty quickly since it's shorter than a lot of the other options. I'll definitely be going back though, this place is beautiful (thanks CCC!). Oct 14, 2008
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
  5.9+
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
  5.9+
FA: Mike Fischesser and Henry Browning in 1984 Oct 15, 2008
Luke Alford
Atlanta, GA
  5.9+
Luke Alford   Atlanta, GA
  5.9+
Fixed, thanks for the info Ben. Oct 15, 2008
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
  5.9+
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
  5.9+
Great, sustained climbing.

P1, solid 9 slab.
P2, 9+ slab and watergroove stemming...
P3, another solid 9 pitch for the upper half...
P4, some thought provoking moves to and past the first bolt and into the groove...easy from there on up. Jul 5, 2009
Be very careful when pulling ropes on the first pitch rappel, we had ropes get stuck two different times due to the twisting. The only solution I see for this would be to add chains. Great route, get your slabbing on! Nov 8, 2014
Drew Dekle  
 
did this route today - I led pitches one and two and my partner, Jeep led pitches 3-4

p-1 - very straight forward - you can sling a couple of horns high to make it less run-out

p-2 - we think this was the hardest pitch - - there is a bolt that really should be at the other side of the groove where you need it through a cruxy section - this pitch is sustained 5.9+ but keep your focus on and enjoy the really great climbing

p-3 - Jeep thought this pitch was 5.8+ and not 5.9 - I followed it and found it plenty challenging and fun - soft 5.9?

p-4 - Jeep took the right groove and only got gear in a flake high and to the right after bolt #1 - - a #4 might have worked in one spot but we didn't have one - a good pitch and only 5.8- but a little tricky - there is gear in the left groove (we checked on rappel).

Fun route at LK - I'd recommend for sure the route has good classic Cashiers water grooving moves for 700' and is reasonably protected except for one tricky spot on p-2 and a little spice on p-4 Oct 30, 2016