Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Laurel Knob

'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Biopsy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Gibbet , The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High & Dry T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mechanical Bull T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0
Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
O.K. Corral T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Permission Granite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Seconds T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 PG13
Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jeep and Julia Gaskin - July 1980
Page Views: 23,839 total, 184/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Groover is one of Laurel Knob's signature moderate routes. It has the distinction of being established in a single-day first ascent by noted NC climber Jeep Gaskin and his wife Julia -- on their honeymoon! For much of its length, Groover follows a nice arching crack system with great protection; toward the top, it uses the carved water grooves that are a hallmark of Laurel Knob. Don't let the 5.8 rating or the fact that there's "only" six pitches fool you; this is a long and committing climb with serious runouts on the upper pitches. Start early and bring plenty of water.

For anyone wanting to experience North Carolina climbing at its finest, Groover is not to be missed.

P1 - starting at a large pine tree, climb a right-facing crack system up and slightly left to a ledge with another pine tree and belay (NOTE: this pine is the only place to bail without leaving gear until you reach the end of the fifth pitch). 5.7+, 190'
P2 - Move right from the tree and continue up a left-facing crack that will merge into the arching crack system that is Groover's main feature. Follow this for another full rope length and find a comfortable spot to build a gear anchor and belay. 5.7, 190'
P3 - Continue up the arching crack to a steep bulge; tiptoe over the bulge to the right and onto a sloping platform that makes a comfortable belay station. 5.7, 180'
P4 - Prepare yourself mentally for climbing high above your protection. From the belay, climb high into the crack and place a medium-to-large cam, then downclimb until you can move out right on a bulge with quartz dikes for footing. Continue traversing right about 30' to reach the second of two deep water grooves, then look for gear before heading up (there's supposed to be a distinctive quartz hole in the groove somewhere). Head up the groove for about 100' or so (you may find a gear placement along the way), until you reach some spacious solution pockets and a welcome crack to build an anchor. 5.8, 160'
NOTE: If you were doing the Fischesser variation, you'd continue up the arching crack from here.
P5 - Move left about 15' to the obvious continuing groove; climb this steeper groove past three bolts and one good pro placement in a finger pocket. Finish at a narrow tree ledge with a bolt just below. 5.8+, 100'
P6 - Continue up on easier ground and arc out right to an obvious tree island for a full rope length; after bringing up your second, continue to the right end of the tree island and look for a bolted rap station (the top of P6 on the Groover Fischesser finish). 5.6, 200'

Descent

The double-rope rappel off Groover is complex enough to get a separate description. Missing some rap stations is easy and can have serious consequences; knot your rope ends.

Rap 1 - from the anchors at the tree island, rap down and pendulum way left to the bolted anchors for P7 of Forbidden Fruit (FF). This is also the P5 belay for the Groover Fischesser finish. 140'
Rap 2 - rap down the groove to the P6 anchors for FF. 170'
Rap 3 - continue down the groove to the P5 anchors for FF. 130'
Rap 4 - continue down FF past the P4 belay bolts (no rap rings) and past a prominent roof. Not far below these bolts and off to the left are the P3 anchors for FF that will be your next rap station. 180'
Rap 5 - trend left as you rap down to find the FF P2 anchors a good ways out to the left of the plumb line; be careful not to pendulum back right. 120'
Rap 6 - finish the descent with a rap straight to the ground. 140'

Location

Groover starts at the far left end of the face. Follow the cliff trail to a point where you'll curve around right and back up above the trail at a large pine tree. From here, you'll know you're in the right place if you can see the tree ledge at the top of the first pitch (much higher than it looks).

Protection

Bring a full rack of active and passive pro; cams up to 4" are useful/necessary. Double ropes are a real asset on the traversing pitches.
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
The P5 water groove is incredible climbing and should not be missed. I have not done the Fischesser finish but I can't imagine doing two more pitches of dihedral/slab would be better than that groove.

The rappels are not as complicated anymore, as "Fruit of the Poisonous Tree" has been installed since this route was posted. From the Fischesser P5 rappel, go way left into the P4 Groover water groove, about 200'. It is a near plumb line from the bolted anchors you find there at the bottom of this groove. Your ropes need to be a bit stretchy to make the 200' rappel, or have 70M ropes. Beware as some of the belays on the plumb line are hanging. Have your rappel systems dialed and use an autoblock.

Of course the Forbidden Fruit rap stations are there too, adding to the number of ways to get down, which is always a plus. Oct 24, 2017
So, Jeep Gaskin had no bolt gun on the first ascent? Amazed he climbed that P5 water groove. It's spicy as hell and has virtually no natural protection. The 4 bolts makes it a brilliant and exciting pitch! The seeping water made it quite hard! Oct 22, 2017
.
Asheville NC
  5.9-
.   Asheville NC
  5.9-
Pulled a football sized hold off P1 Dec. 15 2016. Dec 16, 2016
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
Per the CCC Laurel Knob Climbing Management Plan, "5.1. All routes must be rappelled to descend; there is no walk-off. The top portion of Laurel Knob is owned by another property owner. Please help us be a good neighbor by rappelling all routes." carolinaclimbers.org/sites/…

That should answer your question. Be ready to rap. Mar 7, 2016
Gustav "Goose" Fredrikson
Jacksonville, FL
Gustav "Goose" Fredrikson   Jacksonville, FL
Is there a walk-off? Looking at Google Maps it seems there could be. Mar 7, 2016
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
Freddie....if the direct P1 of the OR is no problem, you will not have any issue on the "runout" section of Groover....especially with the new bolts. Oct 9, 2015
How does the fear factor on Groover compare to the OR at Whitesides? We're planning our first trip to LK, planning to do Seconds, but Groover sounds soooo good...but I'm scared. The first pitch of the OR doesn't bother me much though. Oct 6, 2015
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
Double ropes mandatory....Mandatory on virtually all routes at LK. Nov 1, 2012
SteveBSU
Muncie, IN
SteveBSU   Muncie, IN
Can you rap off with 1 60m or do you have to do double ropes to get down? Oct 31, 2012
i'm really happy groover is being climbed and enjoyed. also glad it has been the scene of several epics. laurel is an excellent place for epic development. if climbing war bonnet or temple peak or the diamond is one of your goals, long, hard days in the relatively benign world of wnc is perfect. i applaud all of you. Sep 9, 2012
sanz
Raleigh, NC
sanz   Raleigh, NC
Do you really climb 100 feet above pro on pitch 4? If so, how in the world does this not have a R rating? Jun 21, 2012
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
  5.8
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
  5.8
4 bolts as of 6/4/2011 on pitch 5. Jun 4, 2011
Did it today with Matt Walsh. Good lord my sphincter was tight on Pitch 5. John, I almost took the same ride that Denmark took! Straddling a water groove that's running with water really messes with your head. Great day! There was some bomber gear in the orange Metolius range in a small horizontal just right of the water groove high on pitch 5. Probably a few moves past the pocket spoken of in the description. Apr 3, 2010
I full on epic'd on this route. The anchors up top are hard to find and I wrote a novel of a trip report with all the stuff I learned about this route. Check it out Groover Trip Report Jun 9, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8+ PG13
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8+ PG13
Climbing Groover was a truly memorable adventure. The grooves on P4 and P5 were both running with water, making the runouts even spicier. Leading P4, I was very happy to find a perfect horizontal yellow Alien placement roughly 70' above my last gear. On P5, my partner took about a 40-footer off the wet groove; happily, he wasn't hurt and finished the lead in good style. Mar 25, 2008