Groover (Gaskin Finish)
Avg: 3.8 from 21 votes
Routes in Laurel Knob
|'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Biopsy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2|
|Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Gibbet , The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|High & Dry T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X|
|Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mechanical Bull T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0|
|Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|O.K. Corral T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Permission Granite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0|
|Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Seconds T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 PG13|
|Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jeep and Julia Gaskin - July 1980|
|Page Views:||23,839 total, 184/month|
|Shared By:||saxfiend on Apr 24, 2007|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
DescriptionGroover is one of Laurel Knob's signature moderate routes. It has the distinction of being established in a single-day first ascent by noted NC climber Jeep Gaskin and his wife Julia -- on their honeymoon! For much of its length, Groover follows a nice arching crack system with great protection; toward the top, it uses the carved water grooves that are a hallmark of Laurel Knob. Don't let the 5.8 rating or the fact that there's "only" six pitches fool you; this is a long and committing climb with serious runouts on the upper pitches. Start early and bring plenty of water.
For anyone wanting to experience North Carolina climbing at its finest, Groover is not to be missed.
P1 - starting at a large pine tree, climb a right-facing crack system up and slightly left to a ledge with another pine tree and belay (NOTE: this pine is the only place to bail without leaving gear until you reach the end of the fifth pitch). 5.7+, 190'
P2 - Move right from the tree and continue up a left-facing crack that will merge into the arching crack system that is Groover's main feature. Follow this for another full rope length and find a comfortable spot to build a gear anchor and belay. 5.7, 190'
P3 - Continue up the arching crack to a steep bulge; tiptoe over the bulge to the right and onto a sloping platform that makes a comfortable belay station. 5.7, 180'
P4 - Prepare yourself mentally for climbing high above your protection. From the belay, climb high into the crack and place a medium-to-large cam, then downclimb until you can move out right on a bulge with quartz dikes for footing. Continue traversing right about 30' to reach the second of two deep water grooves, then look for gear before heading up (there's supposed to be a distinctive quartz hole in the groove somewhere). Head up the groove for about 100' or so (you may find a gear placement along the way), until you reach some spacious solution pockets and a welcome crack to build an anchor. 5.8, 160'
NOTE: If you were doing the Fischesser variation, you'd continue up the arching crack from here.
P5 - Move left about 15' to the obvious continuing groove; climb this steeper groove past three bolts and one good pro placement in a finger pocket. Finish at a narrow tree ledge with a bolt just below. 5.8+, 100'
P6 - Continue up on easier ground and arc out right to an obvious tree island for a full rope length; after bringing up your second, continue to the right end of the tree island and look for a bolted rap station (the top of P6 on the Groover Fischesser finish). 5.6, 200'
DescentThe double-rope rappel off Groover is complex enough to get a separate description. Missing some rap stations is easy and can have serious consequences; knot your rope ends.
Rap 1 - from the anchors at the tree island, rap down and pendulum way left to the bolted anchors for P7 of Forbidden Fruit (FF). This is also the P5 belay for the Groover Fischesser finish. 140'
Rap 2 - rap down the groove to the P6 anchors for FF. 170'
Rap 3 - continue down the groove to the P5 anchors for FF. 130'
Rap 4 - continue down FF past the P4 belay bolts (no rap rings) and past a prominent roof. Not far below these bolts and off to the left are the P3 anchors for FF that will be your next rap station. 180'
Rap 5 - trend left as you rap down to find the FF P2 anchors a good ways out to the left of the plumb line; be careful not to pendulum back right. 120'
Rap 6 - finish the descent with a rap straight to the ground. 140'