Avg: 3.8 from 26 votes
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jeep and Julia Gaskin - July 1980|
|Page Views:||27,476 total · 168/month|
|Shared By:||saxfiend on Apr 24, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
In addition - all 2020 raptor closures on the Nantahala Pisgah NF are LIFTED as of 6/29/2020
For anyone wanting to experience North Carolina climbing at its finest, Groover is not to be missed.
P1 - starting at a large pine tree, climb a right-facing crack system up and slightly left to a ledge with another pine tree and belay (NOTE: this pine is the only place to bail without leaving gear until you reach the end of the fifth pitch). 5.7+, 190'
P2 - Move right from the tree and continue up a left-facing crack that will merge into the arching crack system that is Groover's main feature. Follow this for another full rope length and find a comfortable spot to build a gear anchor and belay. 5.7, 190'
P3 - Continue up the arching crack to a steep bulge; tiptoe over the bulge to the right and onto a sloping platform that makes a comfortable belay station. 5.7, 180'
P4 - Prepare yourself mentally for climbing high above your protection. From the belay, climb high into the crack and place a medium-to-large cam, then downclimb until you can move out right on a bulge with quartz dikes for footing. Continue traversing right about 30' to reach the second of two deep water grooves, then look for gear before heading up (there's supposed to be a distinctive quartz hole in the groove somewhere). Head up the groove for about 100' or so (you may find a gear placement along the way), until you reach some spacious solution pockets and a welcome crack to build an anchor. 5.8, 160'
NOTE: If you were doing the Fischesser variation, you'd continue up the arching crack from here.
P5 - Move left about 15' to the obvious continuing groove; climb this steeper groove past three bolts and one good pro placement in a finger pocket. Finish at a narrow tree ledge with a bolt just below. 5.8+, 100'
P6 - Continue up on easier ground and arc out right to an obvious tree island for a full rope length; after bringing up your second, continue to the right end of the tree island and look for a bolted rap station (the top of P6 on the Groover Fischesser finish). 5.6, 200'
Rap 1 - from the anchors at the tree island, rap down and pendulum way left to the bolted anchors for P7 of Forbidden Fruit (FF). This is also the P5 belay for the Groover Fischesser finish. 140'
Rap 2 - rap down the groove to the P6 anchors for FF. 170'
Rap 3 - continue down the groove to the P5 anchors for FF. 130'
Rap 4 - continue down FF past the P4 belay bolts (no rap rings) and past a prominent roof. Not far below these bolts and off to the left are the P3 anchors for FF that will be your next rap station. 180'
Rap 5 - trend left as you rap down to find the FF P2 anchors a good ways out to the left of the plumb line; be careful not to pendulum back right. 120'
Rap 6 - finish the descent with a rap straight to the ground. 140'