Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Nathan Brown - rope solo FKA of P-4 Shannon Stegg
Page Views: 974 total · 11/month
Shared By: nbrown on Feb 18, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

P-1 Same as Stranger Than Friction -- Easy slab past a couple of cruxes to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8 180'

P-2 Climb past a bolt to gear. Sling long and move left past large pocket (#4 camelot), then straight up groove to a bolt up and right. Move up and right past a finger sized cam (hybrid useful) to 2 bolt anchor. Note: "Stranger..." moves left at the large cam to a separate anchor. 5.10- 180'

P-3 Place a shallow but good # 7 stopper in seam, and then climb the bolt line past some thin but cool climbing that turns into grooving. Continue up the groove to a 2 bolt anchor up and slightly right (25' higher than the "Stranger..." anchor). 6 bolts and no gear past the stopper. 5.10+ 115'

P-4 Climb the moderate groove for about 140' past numerous gear placements to the "Stranger..." anchor. 5.8 140' Note: The FA of this section had been done years ago as a safer way to finish up Stranger Than Friction. FKA of this section was by Shannon Stegg.

P-5 Finish on Stranger Than Friction -- easy grooving with minimal gear to tree's. 5.6 190' Note: Rap from bolts up and right on "The Route Of The Living Dead".

Location

Start on Stranger Than Friction. This route climbs the right hand streak of the two to the top.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 camelot. Maybe some finger sized hybrid cams. Large tricams are useful but not necessary.

Photos

Awesome climbing. Another must do LK route! May 6, 2012
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
  5.10+
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
  5.10+
Glad you enjoyed it Stephen! May 11, 2012
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Very cool route. The second pitch will blow your mind or your pants. That mantel, damn. Third pitch very well protected very good harder climbing. Would be nice just rap back down the route. There is one rap ring up (and two bolts out left of that) and right ten feet of the tree island at the top...maybe part of the Girdle Traverse. Oct 18, 2015