Friction Addiction
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Nathan Brown - rope solo FKA of P-4 Shannon Stegg |
Page Views: | 1,907 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | nbrown on Feb 18, 2012 |
Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Laurel Knob Jan 15- Aug 14: All routes in the Dillard Canyon are closed to climbing during this period.
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
P-1 Same as Stranger Than Friction -- Easy slab past a couple of cruxes to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8 180'
P-2 Climb past a bolt to gear. Sling long and move left past large pocket (#4 camelot), then straight up groove to a bolt up and right. Move up and right past a finger sized cam (hybrid useful) to 2 bolt anchor. Note: "Stranger..." moves left at the large cam to a separate anchor. 5.10- 180'
P-3 Place a shallow but good # 7 stopper in seam, and then climb the bolt line past some thin but cool climbing that turns into grooving. Continue up the groove to a 2 bolt anchor up and slightly right (25' higher than the "Stranger..." anchor). 6 bolts and no gear past the stopper. 5.10+ 115'
P-4 Climb the moderate groove for about 140' past numerous gear placements to the "Stranger..." anchor. 5.8 140' Note: The FA of this section had been done years ago as a safer way to finish up Stranger Than Friction. FKA of this section was by Shannon Stegg.
P-5 Finish on Stranger Than Friction -- easy grooving with minimal gear to tree's. 5.6 190' Note: Rap from bolts up and right on "The Route Of The Living Dead".
P-2 Climb past a bolt to gear. Sling long and move left past large pocket (#4 camelot), then straight up groove to a bolt up and right. Move up and right past a finger sized cam (hybrid useful) to 2 bolt anchor. Note: "Stranger..." moves left at the large cam to a separate anchor. 5.10- 180'
P-3 Place a shallow but good # 7 stopper in seam, and then climb the bolt line past some thin but cool climbing that turns into grooving. Continue up the groove to a 2 bolt anchor up and slightly right (25' higher than the "Stranger..." anchor). 6 bolts and no gear past the stopper. 5.10+ 115'
P-4 Climb the moderate groove for about 140' past numerous gear placements to the "Stranger..." anchor. 5.8 140' Note: The FA of this section had been done years ago as a safer way to finish up Stranger Than Friction. FKA of this section was by Shannon Stegg.
P-5 Finish on Stranger Than Friction -- easy grooving with minimal gear to tree's. 5.6 190' Note: Rap from bolts up and right on "The Route Of The Living Dead".
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