Monster Groove Direct Start
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British A0
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Routes in Laurel Knob
'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Biopsy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R | |
Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2 | |
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Gibbet, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
High & Dry T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X | |
Hostis Humani Generis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 | |
Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R | |
Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Mechanical Bull T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 | |
Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0 | |
Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
O.K. Corral T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Permission Granite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Pipsissewa T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R | |
Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 | |
Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Seconds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Stranger Than Friction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Tastes Like Chicken T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 PG13 | |
Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Type: | Trad, Sport, Aid, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | A.M., N.B. |
Page Views: | 2,498 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | andjoely on Feb 27, 2013 |
Admins: | Ky Bishop, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry |
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Access Issue: Falcon Closure 2023 (May update)
Details
The nesting site has moved. All routes in the Dillard Canyon are closed until Aug 15.
All routes right of Dillard Canyon are now open year-round.
carolinaclimbers.org/node/1336
All routes right of Dillard Canyon are now open year-round.
carolinaclimbers.org/node/1336
Description
This is a 4 pitch direct start to Dike hike- monster groove that we did a while ago. It makes for the steepest, longest, and most direct groove climb at laurel knob. It can seep with water often, but it is slightly drier than the forbidden fruit groove and comparable in wetness to the groove on defective sonar.
P1: climb slab past a cam and one bolt to belay ledge at start of stellar sonar, 5.9R
P2: Climb stellar sonar corner than up overhanging 1/2 pad diagonal crimp crux section. Amazing climbing. Have done it with one hang several times and should go free at 5.13-. You can A0 the crux section off of a hangerless bolt (bring a wired stopper or rivet hanger)
P3: Climb overhanging jugs to step left into water groove, 5.10
P4: Climb ridiculous overhanging water groove, 5.12b
Everything but P2 has been redpointed. P2 is an open project.
P1: climb slab past a cam and one bolt to belay ledge at start of stellar sonar, 5.9R
P2: Climb stellar sonar corner than up overhanging 1/2 pad diagonal crimp crux section. Amazing climbing. Have done it with one hang several times and should go free at 5.13-. You can A0 the crux section off of a hangerless bolt (bring a wired stopper or rivet hanger)
P3: Climb overhanging jugs to step left into water groove, 5.10
P4: Climb ridiculous overhanging water groove, 5.12b
Everything but P2 has been redpointed. P2 is an open project.
Protection
cams and one nut for the hangerless bolt. Everything 5.10 and harder is well protected. Specific gear needed (Take this info with a grain of salt because it is from memory from being on the route a while ago):
P1: medium cam for before first bolt. Belay off of gear in corner or tree.
P2: cams for slabby corner and long slings for this part. Then all you need is quickdraws for the crux section. aidable by using wired nut on quickdraw
p3: assortment of small - medium cams for below the first bolt. I might have slung a horn to, I forget.
p4: bolts and maybe a tiny cam in a horizontal above the first bolt. I think I didn't have the right cam size when I redpointed it and I did it on all draws. I seem to recall that there also might be a hole up high that might take a tricam or a number 2, 3, or 4 camalot. Or maybe not. Maybe Nathan remembers better than me.
P1: medium cam for before first bolt. Belay off of gear in corner or tree.
P2: cams for slabby corner and long slings for this part. Then all you need is quickdraws for the crux section. aidable by using wired nut on quickdraw
p3: assortment of small - medium cams for below the first bolt. I might have slung a horn to, I forget.
p4: bolts and maybe a tiny cam in a horizontal above the first bolt. I think I didn't have the right cam size when I redpointed it and I did it on all draws. I seem to recall that there also might be a hole up high that might take a tricam or a number 2, 3, or 4 camalot. Or maybe not. Maybe Nathan remembers better than me.
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