Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: A.M., N.B.
Page Views: 1,500 total · 21/month
Shared By: andjoely on Feb 27, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a 4 pitch direct start to Dike hike- monster groove that we did a while ago. It makes for the steepest, longest, and most direct groove climb at laurel knob. It can seep with water often, but it is slightly drier than the forbidden fruit groove and comparable in wetness to the groove on defective sonar.

P1: climb slab past a cam and one bolt to belay ledge at start of stellar sonar, 5.9R
P2: Climb stellar sonar corner than up overhanging 1/2 pad diagonal crimp crux section. Amazing climbing. Have done it with one hang several times and should go free at 5.13-. You can A0 the crux section off of a hangerless bolt (bring a wired stopper or rivet hanger)
P3: Climb overhanging jugs to step left into water groove, 5.10
P4: Climb ridiculous overhanging water groove, 5.12b

Everything but P2 has been redpointed. P2 is an open project.

Protection

cams and one nut for the hangerless bolt. Everything 5.10 and harder is well protected. Specific gear needed (Take this info with a grain of salt because it is from memory from being on the route a while ago):
P1: medium cam for before first bolt. Belay off of gear in corner or tree.
P2: cams for slabby corner and long slings for this part. Then all you need is quickdraws for the crux section. aidable by using wired nut on quickdraw
p3: assortment of small - medium cams for below the first bolt. I might have slung a horn to, I forget.
p4: bolts and maybe a tiny cam in a horizontal above the first bolt. I think I didn't have the right cam size when I redpointed it and I did it on all draws. I seem to recall that there also might be a hole up high that might take a tricam or a number 2, 3, or 4 camalot. Or maybe not. Maybe Nathan remembers better than me.

Photos

andjoely
Menlo Park, CA
  5.12b A0
andjoely   Menlo Park, CA
  5.12b A0
Some strong person should come free this thing. I really was determined to do so but then got busy with non-climbing things. Feb 27, 2013
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
This will be an absolute classic some day! Amazing groove up the tallest portion of the wall. Feb 28, 2013
andjoely
Menlo Park, CA
  5.12b A0
andjoely   Menlo Park, CA
  5.12b A0
Gear anchor atop p1 on a ledge you can get up to via 3rd class to the left. Bolted anchor atop p2. Gear anchor atop p3 in a hand-size and smaller crack. bolted anchor atop p4. On the rappel, rappel from P4 to P2 with two ropes and then from P2 to the ledge and walk off the 3rd class to the left. Summer has pretty good conditions on this thing in the morning when it is still in the shade because the groove stops seeping and will dry the morning after afternoon thunderstorms. The sun hits it at 11 or 11:30 am. May 18, 2015