Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: A.M., N.B.
Page Views: 2,856 total · 21/month
Shared By: Andrew McDowell on Feb 27, 2013
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

This is a 4 pitch direct start to Dike hike- monster groove that we did a while ago. It makes for the steepest, longest, and most direct groove climb at laurel knob. It can seep with water often, but it is slightly drier than the forbidden fruit groove and comparable in wetness to the groove on defective sonar.

Warning: climbing at Laurel Knob is especially dangerous due to runouts, sometimes questionable anchors/protection, difficult route finding, rappel descents, and other factors. The information on this route posting is provided for informational purposes only to aid in community discussions and to aid in understanding where the route has been climbed before. Information provided may be inaccurate, incomplete, misleading, and/or highly subjective. Any person(s) attempting to climb this route or any others does so at their own risk and should not rely on any information in this posting. There is no implication by this posting that fixed anchors and removable protection locations, including those described, are safe or adequate to protect further ascents.

P1: climb slab past a cam and one bolt to belay ledge at start of stellar sonar, 5.9R

P2: Climb stellar sonar corner than up overhanging 1/2 pad diagonal crimp crux section. Amazing climbing. Have done it with one hang several times and should go free at 5.13-. You can A0 the crux section off of a hangerless bolt (bring a wired stopper or rivet hanger)

P3: Climb overhanging jugs to step left into water groove, 5.10

P4: Climb ridiculous overhanging water groove, 5.12b

Everything but P2 has been redpointed. P2 is an open project.

Protection Suggest change

Cams and one nut for the hangerless bolt. Everything 5.10 and harder is well protected. What I remembered of the gear needed several years after climbing it is written below, but this may be inaccurate, so be prepared with other gear in case needed.

P1: Medium cam for before first bolt. Belay off of gear in corner or tree.

P2: Cams for slabby corner and long slings for this part. Then all you need is quickdraws for the crux section. aidable by using wired nut on quickdraw

p3: Assortment of small - medium cams for below the first bolt. It might have slung a horn too.

p4: Bolts and maybe a tiny cam in a horizontal above the first bolt. I seem to recall that there also might be a hole up high that might take a tricam or a number 2, 3, or 4 camalot.

Photos

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