Laurel's Snake Dike
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Brad Wilson, Mike Fischesser, Joe Lovenshimer |
Page Views: | 1,661 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | JoeLovenshimer on Oct 11, 2014 |
Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Laurel Knob Jan 15- Aug 14: All routes in the Dillard Canyon are closed to climbing during this period.
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This a very cool and varied route starting on Laurel's shorter right side that gradually traverses left on a thin quartzite dike and eventually crosses the groove of Manatee Fluid. Don't be worried if some of the streaks and grooves are wet. It's generally pretty easy to step across on large features.
P1- This is a really fun and unique pitch that has very few handholds once you are established on the dike. Start up a weakness above some vegetation and climb straight up past gear to the first bolt. Enjoy a balancey sequence near the second bolt and continue past more bolts and interesting features to a bolted anchor at a nice ledge with a cedar tree. Some gear gear can be placed just before the ledge. 5.10-
P2- This great pitch is very different and much steeper than P1. First, fire the bouldery crux right off the ledge past bolts, then continue along the dike crossing a cool water streak and the Manatee Fluid groove. End at a bolted anchor shared with Laurel's girdle just past the Manatee groove. An added bolt on this pitch makes it much more reasonable for the leader and follower. 5.11b
P3- This pitch is optional but necessary to put you down near your gear at the start. Climb easier terrain up and to the right toward the trees on top to get to three different options for bolted anchors to rappel from. There is no distinct path here, but you'll need to move pretty far right. The most convenient is likely at the top of 'Icecapades' (see photo topo), but the 'Shimer down anchors aren't a bad option either. 5.5
P1- This is a really fun and unique pitch that has very few handholds once you are established on the dike. Start up a weakness above some vegetation and climb straight up past gear to the first bolt. Enjoy a balancey sequence near the second bolt and continue past more bolts and interesting features to a bolted anchor at a nice ledge with a cedar tree. Some gear gear can be placed just before the ledge. 5.10-
P2- This great pitch is very different and much steeper than P1. First, fire the bouldery crux right off the ledge past bolts, then continue along the dike crossing a cool water streak and the Manatee Fluid groove. End at a bolted anchor shared with Laurel's girdle just past the Manatee groove. An added bolt on this pitch makes it much more reasonable for the leader and follower. 5.11b
P3- This pitch is optional but necessary to put you down near your gear at the start. Climb easier terrain up and to the right toward the trees on top to get to three different options for bolted anchors to rappel from. There is no distinct path here, but you'll need to move pretty far right. The most convenient is likely at the top of 'Icecapades' (see photo topo), but the 'Shimer down anchors aren't a bad option either. 5.5
Location
Start- Find an obvious weakness just to the left of the dike and about 20 ft left of 'Shimer Down.
Descent: Study the photo topo (found here: extrazoom.com/image-20427.html) and pick your descent. There are 3 good options.
Option 1- Rappel down Manatee Fluid. I haven't tried this since it puts you down far away from your gear but it should take you to the ground pretty easily.
Option 2- Climb P3 to the upper Icecapades anchors. Two double rope rappels should bring you down near your gear.
Option 3- Climb P3 to the 'Shimer Down anchors and make three double rope rappels straight down to your gear.
Descent: Study the photo topo (found here: extrazoom.com/image-20427.html) and pick your descent. There are 3 good options.
Option 1- Rappel down Manatee Fluid. I haven't tried this since it puts you down far away from your gear but it should take you to the ground pretty easily.
Option 2- Climb P3 to the upper Icecapades anchors. Two double rope rappels should bring you down near your gear.
Option 3- Climb P3 to the 'Shimer Down anchors and make three double rope rappels straight down to your gear.
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