Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: J. Jacobs, S. Stegg, T. Morgan. spring/summer 2012
Page Views: 3,039 total · 41/month
Shared By: Jody Jacobs on Nov 17, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

This route offers varied climbing and follows some neat features. As the rating suggests, it's more casual than your typical LK route.

P1 - Start near a large white pine tree at the base of the Girdle Traverse. To the right of P1 of the girdle is a left facing flake above a sloping ledge. Make a few funky moves off the sloping ledge and onto the flake. Climb the flake to it's end, then slab up past two bolts and move slightly left into a long, dry, tan colored groove. Follow this easy groove past another bolt to a double bolt belay on a moss pad ledge. 5.7 60m

P2 - Continue up the obvious groove to some pockets under a moss pad and a bolt. Move left around the moss pad, then back right until you're directly above it. Climb the steeper face on cool pockets (gear) to a good stance with a bolt. Climb up and slightly right into the shallow corner and up the obvious right facing flake. Where the flake ends continue up the face/slab, finishing up a shallow groove to a belay ledge with double bolts. 5.7, 45m

P3 - Directly above the P2 belay is a vegetated groove that's often wet, we didn't climb it and it doesn't look all that great. To the right of this is an obvious clean groove with a short steepish section. This is one variation of P3. I don't recommend climbing this groove unless it's almost completely dry. There's one bolt in it above the bulge and then a bit of a run out on easier ground to where it joins the right most variation. 5.7, 60m

I like the right most variation the best and suggest it as the normal finish. This variation is just right of the groove described above. Start as for the above described groove. Move right just before the start of the steeper part of the groove at a gear placement. Climb up a few horizontals to a naturally clean streak. Climb the streak past a single bolt and a bit of a runout to easier ground. Continue up following a series of ramps and horizontals past a small cluster of trees on your left to the top of the wall and a large pine tree. 5.7, 60m

Note: If the P1 flake is wet the P2 one will be also. If you make the hike and Frolictown is wet, one good option is climbing P1 of the Girdle straight up to it's belay (aka Before the Settlers Arrive) and linking up with the route Biopsy. Info on Biopsy is available on the forums on the CCC website.

Location

Approach as for the Girdle traverse. This route is at the far right end of the wall. Rap the route to descend.

Protection

A regular cam rack to a 3" piece and the smaller tricams. Doubles in the small/medium cams or a set of singles plus offset cams in that size range is handy but not mandatory.

Fixe ring anchors at the P1 and P2 belays. The P3 belay at the large pine was equipped with two rope slings and a ring as of late October.

Photos

Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
  5.7
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
  5.7
Thanks for putting a up a great, well thought out route for those of us with less intestinal fortitude who like to lead out at LK. There's bolts and gear when you need it but you still keep the run out flavor of the area. The pitch lengths work out really well. Everything at the start of P3 was dry, but we chose to take the recommended finish. I agree that it seems like the best way to go and you get to make this funky move in an eyebrow.

I thought the crux was on P2 after the 2nd bolt. The flake peters out so I stayed left on the face the whole time through some thinner slab moves. The bolt is pretty far below you at this point but I was able to get in two pieces of gear right before this. Nov 9, 2014