Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Andrew M. and Adam A.- December 2009
Page Views: 1,244 total · 7/month
Shared By: Andrew McDowell on Dec 18, 2009
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

This route starts out following the face 1.5 grooves left of Manatee Fluid and ends finishing up the very deep and nearly always wet groove 2 grooves left of Manatee Fluid (which was later climbed as Get it While It's Hot). The route was originally climbed when the water groove was flowing. This route is probably one of the more runout routes at Laurel Knob, and the route finding is difficult and committing. 

Warning: Climbing at Laurel Knob is extremely dangerous due to long runouts, poor protection, difficult route finding, rappel descents, and other factors. The information in this posting is provided for informational and historical purposes only to aid in understanding roughly where the route has been climbed before. Information provided is approximate, subjective, and based upon sometimes vague memories of recreational climber(s) that may not have been recorded until long after climbing the route. As such, the information is unverified and may be inaccurate, incomplete, and/or misleading. Any person(s) attempting to climb this route or any others does so at their own risk using their own routefinding skills and judgement and shall not rely on any information in this posting. Bolts and fixed anchors left in place on the route were placed so as to protect the first ascent party (often placed from strenuous stances while drilling on lead in traditional style), but it is neither claimed nor implied that such anchors as well as removable protection placement locations are safe or suitable to protect further ascents. It is the responsibility of persons climbing the route to thoroughly inspect bolts/fixed anchors before deciding to use them.

The photo topo sketch may be completely wrong, and P2 was basically just climbed wandering past gear and features to the P2 anchor.

(All pitch lengths are guesses. I believe I climbed the route with a 60m rope)

P1: (5.7) Climb Manatee Left slab to the Manatee Left anchor (180 feet)

P2: (5.9R) Wander heading generally up and left up the face past sparse and often poor protection to two bolt anchor. Follow features and gear. Good route-finding and down-climbing (in case one goes the wrong way) skills are a must. Features followed on the FA are attempted to be shown on the topo but they may be misleading. Double rope technique would probably be useful due to the wandering and spread-out protection.

P3: (5.10c, 5.10aR) Climb up and left and back right to high first bolt. Continue up past another two bolts with a crux somewhere in between. Then make a long runout to a dike where one can hand-traverse left to a bolt in a deep groove. Continue up a deep groove another 80 feet or so to a 2 bolt anchor. There is a questionable #4 Camalot  (I remember it being flared and wet) placement and better but hard to place cams right of the groove. (180 ft)

P4: (5.8R) Continue up groove until a steep section. Step left onto the face and pull a dirty bulge to trees. When the groove was dry when climbing Get it While it's Hot, I think we may have climbed further up the groove before trending to the tree island. (160 ft).

Location Suggest change

Start on "Manatee Left" which is the 5.7 slab 50 feet left of the 5.9 standard start to manattee fluid

Protection Suggest change

I brought cams from tiny to #4 camalot (with probably doubles of smaller sizes), tricams, and nuts. I was glad to have the small white (0.125) and black (0.25) tricams, 2 pink tricams, and many long slings on the 2nd pitch for the way I did it. The protection on the second pitch is sparse, often less than bomber, and wandery.

There is a solid 5.10a section 25 feet runout just before the 4th bolt on p4. It's possible but unlikely that a cam smaller than a 00 TCU might fit in a very shallow and flared horizontal feature in that area. This route was put up hand drilling from stances mostly rope solo with the goal of using as few bolts as possible.

Photos

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