Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Andrew M. and Adam A.- December 2009
Page Views: 275 total · 2/month
Shared By: andjoely on Dec 18, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This route starts out following the face 1.5 grooves left of manatee fluid and ends finishing up the very deep and nearly always wet groove 2 grooves left of manatee fluid (which was later climbed as get it while it's hot). The route is easy to do when this groove is wet (as was done on the FA) because it is so deep and the face dries very fast after rain. The photo topo may be completely wrong, so kind of pick your own route to the p2 anchor based on gear and features.

Location

Start on "Manatee Left" which is the 5.7 slab 50 feet left of the 5.9 standard start to manattee fluid

Protection

There is a 5.10a section 25 feet runout just before the 4th bolt on p4. The bolts were hand drilled from stances mostly rope solo. Overall I remember this to be a very heads-up route that I'd recommend only to be done by people who are very solid on runout slabs and want the challenge. Bring cams to #4 camalot and a variety of tricams which are useful for the 2nd pitch. I was glad to have the white and black tricams, 2 pink tricams, and many long slings on the 2nd pitch for the way I did it.

Photos

ziggy
  5.10c R
ziggy  
  5.10c R
With Andrew, December 16th 2009. The climbing on this route is spectacular especially the crux pitch. Really cool diagonal jugs, quartz dikes, and awesome deep water groove climbing makes this route a real gem. The route could use some traffic especially near the top to help clean it off. We tried to remove as much of the lichen as was necessary.

I fear this line will be overlooked due to the fact that it is shorter than many of the classic lines and the R rating might deter some, but it is fantastic, don't miss it! Dec 21, 2009
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
Good job, guys. I'll do it next time I'm in the area. Dec 22, 2009
Nice looking route done in good style with minimal bolts.

We have a route in progress (started last year, but other projects and rain have kept us away) that goes up the slab left of Manatee Left passed the one old bolt near the top of the pitch to a natural anchor in the crack. It crosses "Groovin' and follows the crack and stays to the right of the black streak that comes down off the left side of the Manatee. We stopped prior to reaching the Manatee, but it appears our line will go through the roof crack on the left side of the Manatee (or skirt the left side of the Manatee) then up. We should be able to get back on it once we get a little dry weather. Dec 22, 2009