Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish)
Avg: 3.7 from 30 votes
Routes in Laurel Knob
|'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Biopsy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2|
|Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Gibbet , The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|High & Dry T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X|
|Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mechanical Bull T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0|
|Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|O.K. Corral T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Permission Granite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0|
|Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Seconds T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 PG13|
|Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 1320 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Mike Fischesser and Liz Cornish 1982|
|Page Views:||13,312 total, 103/month|
|Shared By:||BirminghamBen on Apr 24, 2007|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
DescriptionThis is a variation to Jeep Gaskin's original line.
NOV. 2014: Edited original route submittal to geehaw with Mike's excellent topo and beta below.
P1: Climb a crack/weakness to the tree. Belay. 120' 5.6
P2: Traverse right to climbable rock, trending back left as you face climb up to gain the crack that defines most of this awesome route. Follow the crack to one of two good spots for a belay - large scoops in the rock. NOTE: Stretch it here so you have enough rope for P3. 200' 5.6
P3: Continue along the prominent crack with good gear until it runs out. Traverse up and right over a thin, slabby bulge to a large sloping ledge. Soem consider the last moves to the ledge the crux of the route. 180' 5.7+
P4: Climb out and up the crack to #3 and #4 Camalot placements. Sling with a long runner (left rope). Lower/down-climb 30' and traverse right along a slim quartz dike .... Work into the SECOND water groove... which is very positive if dry. Climb the water groove 80'over two new bolts (2014) until you reach nice-sized solution pockets and a weakness above. Belay out of the crack above the solution pockets on as many 0 thru 3 MCs/TCUs as you can carry. There's also a pod for a #2 Camalot above the smaller gear. 130ish' of travel, maybe 90' of vertical gain. 5.9 (No longer PG13/R!)
P5: Water groove has turned into a crack...follow this up to a bolted belay at the top of Forbidden Fruit. 120' 5.7
P6 and beyond.....look at Mike's topo below.
Forbidden Fruit Rappel (borrowed from Saxfiend's Gaskin Finish description). The double-rope rappel off Groover is complex enough to get a separate description. Missing some rap stations is easy and can have serious consequences; knot your rope ends.
Rap 1 - from the anchors at the tree island, rap down and pendulum way left to the bolted anchors for P7 of Forbidden Fruit (FF). This is also the P5 belay for the Groover Fischesser finish. 140'
Rap 2 - rap down the groove to the P6 anchors for FF. 170'
Rap 3 - continue down the groove to the P5 anchors for FF. 130'
Rap 4 - continue down FF past the P4 belay bolts (no rap rings) and past a prominent roof. Not far below these bolts and off to the left are the P3 anchors for FF that will be your next rap station. 180'
Rap 5 - trend left as you rap down to find the FF P2 anchors a good ways out to the left, maybe 60', of the plumb line; be careful not to pendulum back right. 120'
Rap 6 - finish the descent with a rap straight to the ground. 140'
LocationFar left of the face starting in front of a large white pine...look for the solitary large pine tree ledge at the top of P1 crack/weakness (consult the photo).
ProtectionHalf set of stoppers, small tricams, double set cams from Metolius 0 thru BD 2 (or whatever), one #3.
4" piece nice for the initial pro on P4 but not critical as a #3 works lower.
Lots of draws/slings, couple cordalettes.
60M ropes good, 70M better.
NOTE: Double rope rappels, so use doubles or tag a line.
The top of P1 has a large tree, P5 has bolted anchors, top of P6 has bolted anchors.
P2 thru P4 are all gear belays.