Type: Trad, 1320 ft (400 m), 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mike Fischesser and Liz Cornish 1982
Page Views: 22,887 total · 111/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is a variation to Jeep Gaskin's original line.

NOV. 2014: Edited original route submittal to geehaw with Mike's excellent topo and beta below.

P1: Climb a crack/weakness to the tree. Belay. 120' 5.6

P2: Traverse right to climbable rock, trending back left as you face climb up to gain the crack that defines most of this awesome route. Follow the crack to one of two good spots for a belay - large scoops in the rock. NOTE: Stretch it here so you have enough rope for P3. 200' 5.6

P3: Continue along the prominent crack with good gear until it runs out. Traverse up and right over a thin, slabby bulge to a large sloping ledge. Soem consider the last moves to the ledge the crux of the route. 180' 5.7+

P4: Climb out and up the crack to #3 and #4 Camalot placements. Sling with a long runner (left rope). Lower/down-climb 30' and traverse right along a slim quartz dike .... Work into the SECOND water groove... which is very positive if dry. Climb the water groove 80'over two new bolts (2014) until you reach nice-sized solution pockets and a weakness above. Belay out of the crack above the solution pockets on as many 0 thru 3 MCs/TCUs as you can carry. There's also a pod for a #2 Camalot above the smaller gear. 130ish' of travel, maybe 90' of vertical gain. 5.9 (No longer PG13/R!)

P5: Water groove has turned into a crack...follow this up to a bolted belay at the top of Forbidden Fruit. 120' 5.7

P6 and beyond.....look at Mike's topo below.

Forbidden Fruit Rappel (borrowed from Saxfiend's Gaskin Finish description). The double-rope rappel off Groover is complex enough to get a separate description. Missing some rap stations is easy and can have serious consequences; knot your rope ends.

Rap 1 - from the anchors at the tree island, rap down and pendulum way left to the bolted anchors for P7 of Forbidden Fruit (FF). This is also the P5 belay for the Groover Fischesser finish. 140'
Rap 2 - rap down the groove to the P6 anchors for FF. 170'
Rap 3 - continue down the groove to the P5 anchors for FF. 130'
Rap 4 - continue down FF past the P4 belay bolts (no rap rings) and past a prominent roof. Not far below these bolts and off to the left are the P3 anchors for FF that will be your next rap station. 180'
Rap 5 - trend left as you rap down to find the FF P2 anchors a good ways out to the left, maybe 60', of the plumb line; be careful not to pendulum back right. 120'
Rap 6 - finish the descent with a rap straight to the ground. 140'

Location Suggest change

Far left of the face starting in front of a large white pine...look for the solitary large pine tree ledge at the top of P1 crack/weakness (consult the photo).

Protection Suggest change

Half set of stoppers, small tricams, double set cams from Metolius 0 thru BD 2 (or whatever), one #3.
4" piece nice for the initial pro on P4 but not critical as a #3 works lower.
Lots of draws/slings, couple cordalettes.
60M ropes good, 70M better.
NOTE: Double rope rappels, so use doubles or tag a line.

The top of P1 has a large tree, P5 has bolted anchors, top of P6 has bolted anchors.
P2 thru P4 are all gear belays.