Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches
GPS: 35.15026, -83.0564
FA: Nathan Brown, Andrew Mcdowell with help from Lee Carter & Brian Williams
Page Views: 6,322 total · 32/month
Shared By: nbrown on Apr 12, 2010
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

This is an amazing laser cut water groove and streak that probably should have been climbed a long time ago. It's easily one of the best routes at Laurel Knob, and probably the Cashiers area in general. The groove is a little less featured (more frictiony) than others of the same difficulty here. A note on conditions: It dries relatively fast after a rain as long as the water table is fairly low (long before Manatee Fluid, for reference).

Start up high on a wooded ledge, same as for Nannas Bananas.

P-1. Very fun pitch if dry. Climb the left-hand groovy crack thing to a ledge and belay from bolts. 5.9. (Alt if wet, climb the 4th class slab on right to same ledge). 

P-2. 5.11 The money pitch... Climb the water streak and groove past 13 bolts (5 have been added since the FA, by the FA party) and gear, varying from small C3's to a #4 camalot. Belay at 2 bolt anchor at 185'.

Note: The bolting on this pitch has been re-engineered to be much safer and more consistent without diminishing the experience too much. If you find yourself thinking it's sketchy, just keep in mind that Andrew originally led the upper part of this pitch with 5 less bolts!

P-3. 5.9 Climb the moderate groove past 3 bolts and gear to bolt anchor at 175'. There is a cool #2, 3, and 4 camalot placement in the groove on this pitch. There are also a couple small TCUs to keep an eye out for.

P-4. Pretty uneventful, but if you've just gotta top out the groove... then climb an easy 5th class pitch to the same rap anchor as for Nannas.... and Laurels Girdle.  The anchor is slightly out left of the groove above the mossy ledges. Not much (if any) gear.

Rap route. If the first pitch is wet, it might be best to rap the apron on Manatee left to avoid getting ropes wet.

Location Suggest change

This is the groove to the right of nannas bananas and left of the most wet streak at LK

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack up to #4 camelot. Hybrid aliens are useful but not necessary.

Photos

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