Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches
FA: Fischesser, Clawes, Dean, Lackey 1992
Page Views: 3,815 total · 21/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Feb 14, 2009
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route

11 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

P1: Start in the obvious left-facing corner/ramp. Climb the corner until it gets steep. Make moves around to the right onto the face and then to a bolted belay above. 5.8+

Alt. Start 1: From the base of the corner, slab directly out right, then straight up over seams for gear and high quality 8+/9- slab.

Alt. Start 2: The Spermtail Start: From the ground below and 100' right of the corner, climb directly up through the obvious bulge/groove/crack, joining the normal P1 at the belay. 5.11+ or A0.

P2: Traverse right into groove and up over a bulge on hand jams. Continue up groove/crack and face aiming for a lieback flake. Pull this onto face and clip bolt. Slab and face take you to anchors belay the Oasis ledges. 5.9-

P3: Slab up to large ledge and taverse up and right. Continue past the end of the flaring crack and past one bolt. Keep going right, past corner, until you climb up groove to anchors.

P4: see below.

Rap five times to ground on two ropes.

Location Suggest change

Find the obvious left facing, J-shaped corner. Left of Seconds, right of Fathom.

Protection Suggest change

Single rack, tricams, stoppers, draws, slings, double ropes as usual.