Avg: 3.5 from 56 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 8 pitches|
|FA:||Peter Young, John Whisnant, Greg Siren - 1972|
|Page Views:||19,349 total · 123/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Mekolites on Aug 26, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
In addition - all 2020 raptor closures on the Nantahala Pisgah NF are LIFTED as of 6/29/2020
Pitches 1 - 5(ish) climb along the leaning dihedral sometimes using the crack and sometimes using the face. Along the way there are a couple of bolted anchors and a couple of gear anchors. I have heard some say the climbing is no more than 5.6, I have heard others call it 5.9. I think it depends on the line you take. And depending on the line you take you may find little gear. Note: when I climbed this route, April 2006, we came up about 15 feet short of the anchors located at the start of the water groove pitch, so we did some simul-climbing.
The money pitch climbs up through the water groove with bolts for protection. I heard a story about the belay for this pitch...something about a position belay...before the bolts were updated.
From here, the easiest thing to do is rap. Several double rope rappels straight down will lead you to the ground. There are other options as well. One is heading up and right. The other is, I believe, the Hone Ranger finish which goes straight up. I haven't done either of those finishes.