Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Jerry Clawges, Mike Fischesser, 1990
Page Views: 5,971 total · 51/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 6, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Central Pillar is a great option if you arrive at LK and find lots of the routes wet. The first three pitches go at 5.9 and can easily be rapped. The third pitch is amazing.

P1: Climb the short corner to a horizontal that leads right to a sweet finger crack. Follow the crack until it ends then slab up past two bolts to a bolted belay. 5.8, 150 feet
P2: Step left to a crack and mantel up on a sloping wide ramp that leads right to another crack. Continue up past two bolts to another bolted belay. 5.9, 150 feet
P3: Locate the amazing quartz dike that snakes its way up from the left. Climb up to the dike on the right, then left, passing three bolts to a big comfy ledge and bolted belay. 5.9, 120 feet
P4: Traverse right to the big water groove, climb up past one bolt to a bulge, step right and belay. 5.10, 80 feet
P5: Finish on Wild Turkey, 5.10+ or traverse right to the bolted anchors on pitch 5 of Seconds.

Location

Central Pillar is located just left and uphill of Seconds. Look for the short arching crack near the base of a tree.

Protection

Double ropes, singes to 2".
russellHOBART
Durham, NC
russellHOBART   Durham, NC
Not for climbers uncomfortable with slab. If this route weren't in North Carolina it would have an R rating. Beautiful climb. Apr 17, 2013
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
Did this again the other day with a friend that’s new to the area. We climbed to the top of the 3rd pitch then busted right and up two grooves over into seconds way and the lower lost world belay. Finished up on seconds and took it to the tippity top! Great linkup. Mar 5, 2018