Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: DV & Zeb Hammerly (ground up)
Page Views: 1,133 total · 34/month
Shared By: Dylan Valvo on Mar 10, 2022
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

Pipsissewa: to break down stone
If you are interested in repeating this route and would like more beta feel free to reach out and I’d be happy to provide further details as well as any asterisks on our ascent and my time working it. This is a hard climb to just get up let alone free in a day. 
Pitch 1 Boulder up corner over bulge and cut left onto the face. From here head up to the fold above. On the first go I climbed left along this overlap then hit the right leaning crack and took that back out to the bolt above. This required back cleaning the crack completely and slinging everything below long to reduce drag which also left the follower unprotected (if they tried to follow that route). Against usual style of keeping the hole count down I added one bolt and straightened the line up for a future ascent. Now climb right around the overlap. Follow bolts out right through deceptive climbing then head up to the dike hike belay 5.12 160’ (7 bolts & gear)
Pitch 2 head straight off the belay into the most sustained pitch of the climb following bolts through bulge and some wacky movement eventually gaining another massive dike to a bolted anchor. All bolts 5.12+ 175’ (8 bolts)
Pitch 3 continue up sustained slab possibly extending a couple draws to eliminate drag on off balance climbing. Climb up to a set of bolted anchors where you can belay and see your partner for the entire pitch or belay farther up in the crack under the next pitch for a more “attentive” catch. All bolts .5-.75 pieces for upper natural anchor 5.11 180’ (7 bolts)
Pitch 4 this pitch was bolted by Shannon Stegg and company but was abandoned. I left everything as they had established it. A pink tricam keeps the first moves off the belay. Climb up low percentage moves and make a couple wild traverse move right (crazy beta) to the groove. The groove let’s off for a minute before a final boulder problem to gain the anchors. 5.13 90’ (7 bolts)
Pitch 5 hold it together for one more tough slab pitch following bolts eventually building a gear belay in a large seam under a bulge. All bolts .75-2” for anchor 5.11 120’ (7 bolts)
Pitch 6 climb over the left side of bulge and up easier runout terrain to a single bolt (long) ring anchor on horizontal shelf 5.9 70’ one piece of gear
Pitch 7 continue scramble upwards to the summit if you fancy and Pitch 8 anchors for the fischesser finish on groover that traverses out into Dillard canyon 5.8 (0 bolts)
Either continue heading towards Dillard canyon on the Fischesser finish (not advised as the climbing look far from inspiring) or rap the route with double 60s (0 bolts)

Location Suggest change

This climb starts in a left facing corner down and right of the dike hike. Reference photo

Protection Suggest change

To climb this route I would bring tricams from black to blue, a 00/0 offset cam (or a 00) and a single set of cams .5-2” cams, alpine runners to extend some pro.

Photos

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