Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft
FA: Nathan Brown - rope solo Mike Reardon belayed for redpoint
Page Views: 1,316 total · 16/month
Shared By: nbrown on Mar 4, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This thing was originally under a thick layer of lichen (not of the endangerd variety), but after a good bit of cleaning up it revealed some really cool climbing. Down low there is a funky corner and up high there are lots of quartz features for holds. The crux utilizes what is likely the smallest hold that I've ever actually been able to "hold" onto, hence the name.

Climb the short fist crack in the right side of a flake to a stance and get a medium cam. Continue up using cool quartz knobs past a bolt to a right diagonaling corner. Follow this corner past a purple TCU and to the bolt line. Follow the bolt line up the face and arete past some thin moves and cool crystals to a 2 bolt anchor and lower off. 90'

Location

This is the first right on the left wall of Dillard Canyon proper a couple minutes past Groover.

Protection

light rack for the start. Bolt protected from the second one up.

Photos

andjoely
Menlo Park, CA
  5.11c
andjoely   Menlo Park, CA
  5.11c
Awesome! Now there's 3 killer aretes to do in dillard: this one, mechanical bull, and the dillard arete. All dry extremely fast. One could do the arete tour and climb steep aretes all day - quite atypical climbing compared to the stuff on the main face. Mar 5, 2012