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Routes in Laurel Knob

'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Biopsy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Gibbet , The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High & Dry T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mechanical Bull T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0
Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
O.K. Corral T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Permission Granite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Seconds T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 PG13
Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Nathan Brown, Tony Spainhour
Page Views: 380 total, 3/month
Shared By: nbrown on Nov 15, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is the first new route to be legally completed since the acquisition of LK by the CCC, hence the name. It roughly follows an old incomplete line for the first 1 1/2 pitches, dubbed "Green Eggs and Ham" (Jerry Roberts and company). It also merges into the illegally bolted and subsequently chopped route "Mirage" for about 80' on pitches 3-4.

For anyone interested in a historical note regarding the controversy: The CCC, not the FA party did the chopping of the Mirage bolts but somehow missed the 2 located at the beginning of the 4th pitch. We re-located the first one down a couple feet to provide better spacing as they were originally only about 3' apart, but left the 2nd one where it was. Regarding the merge at P-4: We were attempting to re-establish the upper section of Mirage as both a favor to a friend (at the time), and as the finish of our line - PG. However, when we arrived at the high point of Mirage it quickly became clear to us that we were mislead, and that Mirage had not actually been completed. The actual high point for Mirage was at the level of the 3rd bolt on P-4 - at the start of the sustained watergroove section.

Of special note: This route dries very quickly and is a good choice after a rain, even if the other grooves are waterfalls. The first pitches are friction slab, and avoid the potentially wet grooves. By the time that you make it to the grooves up higher, the sun has already had enough time to dry the wall off.

Start on the short right facing flake that is located between "Honeranger" and "Oasis".

P-1 Follow this to a line of 5 bolts, interspersed with a couple of gear placements, to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10+ 100'). Note: the fixed rp was removed and replaced with a bolt (with re-spacing) on 1/14/2014.

P-2 Step out right and follow the bolts up and leftward, then back up and right to the 2 bolt anchor (5.10 180').

P-3 Climb past 2 bolts up and rightward to the dark and more featured water streak. Get some thin gear (small RP and hybrid alien) and move up to another bolt. Continue up past more gear to a leftward traverse that leads to a 2 bolt anchor (5.9 130').

P-4 The Phantom-bolts pitch! (ask Wayne R where the name comes from...) Move right up the ramp and climb up past 2 bolts and then gear to a small sloping ledge at a bush. Get a good rest here, and then fire the sustained shallow watergroove above past 7 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor at a great ledge (5.10++/11a 180').

P-5 It is best to step up (via aiding off of anchor) to clip the first bolt before stepping back down and freeing the crux. Climb the very thin crux to a small flare (protects with smallest hybrid alien/TCU or the perfectly placed nut), and climb past another bolt and some gear to a funky transition into the watergroove above. Continue past 2 more bolts and possibly some hybrid friends to a 2 bolt anchor (solid 5.11, 150').

Either continue up and slightly right into the last 2 pitches of "Fathom", or rappel off.

Location

Start in the short right facing flake that is located between "Honeranger" and "Oasis". There is a strange looking "X" in the rock where 2 quartz bands meet. "X" marks the spot.

Protection

Light rack, including RP's and a selection of hybrid aliens. Also possibly a few medium sized hybrid friends.
A LK route of the highest quality! Varied climbing requiring many skill sets. Thanks Nate! May 27, 2012
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
 
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
 
Agreed, this is one of my favorite routes of all time. I scared myself silly by getting a bit off route on pitch 3. P4 may be the coolest pitch on the Knob and felt every bit of 11a to me. The move off of the belay on P5 blew my onsight, or, that is, my weak mind couldn't stop my weak body from grabbing the draw. Anyway, beautiful work Nathan, you are a route maestro. Nov 23, 2010
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Thanks Ben. If you get a chance before it warms up, that'd be best. Winter is the prime season at LK... that wall is a solar panel. Dec 7, 2007
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
Looks awesome...I may give it a whirl next time I'm in the area...when it gets warmer, probably next year, that is. Nov 30, 2007