Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: A.M.
Page Views: 1,351 total · 11/month
Shared By: andjoely on Feb 27, 2013
Admins: Ky Bishop, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Access Issue: Falcon Closure 2023 (May update) Details


This is a variation to monster groove direct linking other routes with 60 feet of new climbing that bypasses the business of Monster groove direct and makes for the second easiest free route up the steep parts of Laurel Knob between Fathom and Forbidden Fruit.

P1-P2: Climb first two pitches of rejected radar, defective sonar, or P1 of monster groove direct and stellar sonar to get to the bolted belay at base of pitch 3 of defective sonar. (5.10)
p3: Climb rejected radar to the right angling crack (crux section on the face getting to the crack). Put a 6 foot sling on large cams (#4 and #5 camalot) and then continue traversing left on 5.10 climbing putting 2 foot slings on most of the gear. 4 bolts including the two on rejected radar. Gear belay takes #1 to #3 camalot. (5.12a)
p4: Climb overhanging water groove pitch of monster groove direct. A marginal small offset cam or TCU fits between the first and second bolts on the left. No other gear needed. Bolted belay on the dike to the left that is easy to miss. Bring a brush for cleaning a few key holds which get dirty quickly from the water running down the groove much of the year. (5.12b)
p5-p7: Climb the monster groove to the top (see description for the route dike hike - monster groove)


I took doubles of cams from tiny to #2 camalot including offsets, singles of #3, #4, and #5 camalot C4, nuts, and tricams. A third #2 camalot is recommended for the gear belay. Red C3 is needed for one of the upper pitches of the monster groove. Much of the gear can be left at the gear belay atop pitch 3 and retrieved when rappelling (using 2 60 m ropes off bolted anchors). Reasonably well protected except for some moderate runouts on some easier sections of the upper monster groove pitches.