Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: A.M.
Page Views: 1,618 total · 12/month
Shared By: Andrew McDowell on Feb 27, 2013
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

This is a variation to monster groove direct linking other routes with 60 feet of new climbing that bypasses the business of Monster groove direct and makes for the second easiest free route up the steep parts of Laurel Knob between Fathom and Forbidden Fruit.

Warning: climbing at Laurel Knob is especially dangerous due to runouts, sometimes questionable anchors/protection, difficult route finding, rappel descents, and other factors. The information on this route posting is provided for informational purposes only to aid in community discussions and to aid in understanding where the route has been climbed before. Information provided may be inaccurate, incomplete, misleading, and/or highly subjective. Any person(s) attempting to climb this route or any others does so at their own risk and should not rely on any information in this posting. There is no implication by this posting that fixed anchors and removable protection locations, including those described, are safe or adequate to protect further ascents.

P1-P2: Climb first two pitches of rejected radar, defective sonar, or P1 of monster groove direct and stellar sonar to get to the bolted belay at base of pitch 3 of defective sonar. (5.10)

p3: Climb rejected radar to the right angling crack (crux section on the face getting to the crack). Put a 6 foot sling on large cams (#4 and #5 camalot) and then continue traversing left on 5.10 climbing putting 2 foot slings on most of the gear. 4 bolts including the two on rejected radar. Gear belay takes #1 to #3 camalot. (5.12a PG13)

p4: Climb overhanging water groove pitch of monster groove direct. A marginal small offset cam or TCU fits between the first and second bolts on the left. Bolted belay on the dike to the left that is easy to miss. Bring a brush for cleaning a few key holds which get dirty quickly from the water running down the groove much of the year. (5.12b)

p5-p7: Climb the monster groove to the top (see description for the route dike hike - monster groove)

Protection Suggest change

I took doubles of cams from tiny to #2 camalot including offsets, singles of #3, #4, and #5 camalot C4, nuts, and tricams. A third #2 camalot is recommended for the gear belay. Red C3 is needed for one of the upper pitches of the monster groove. Much of the gear can be left at the gear belay atop pitch 3 and retrieved when rappelling (using 2 60 m ropes off bolted anchors). Reasonably well protected except for some moderate runouts on some easier sections of the upper monster groove pitches.