All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Laurel Knob

Use it or Luge it Direct Start

Name: Use it or Luge it Direct Start
Rating: 3.0

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Laurel Knob

L › R R › L A › Z

	'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Biopsy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2
	Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Gibbet, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	High & Dry T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
	Hostis Humani Generis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mechanical Bull T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0
	Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	O.K. Corral T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Permission Granite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Pipsissewa T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
	Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Quantum Mechanic's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
	Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Seconds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Stranger Than Friction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Tastes Like Chicken T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 PG13
	Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA:	Andrew M. - November 2009
Page Views:	718 total · 4/month
Shared By:	andjoely on Nov 29, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	Ky Bishop, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Your Star Rating:

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick

-none-

Access Issue: Falcon Closure 2023 Details

Feb 1- Aug 14: Routes between, and including, Fathom to Permission Granite are closed to climbing during this period.

carolinaclimbers.org/node/1252

Description

Place gear in horizontal to prevent you from tumbling way down slab if you blow moves to first bolt. Clip first bolt, decipher a well protected, tricky crux. Climb past another bolt (added by FA party, 2014) and good holds (5.9+), then mantle and clip the third (used to be the second) bolt.

Continue up to a flared crack 5 feet higher which takes offset cams and tricams. Climb up and left on cool face holds to another crack which takes medium cams. Climb up the water groove and the face next to it to a stance in the groove, just before it steepens. Here, people used to undertake a 5.8X traverse left to #1 Camalot placement, and then back right into the groove to finish the pitch. In 2014 the FA party added two bolts in the groove, creating a more direct pitch. The whole first pitch is about 150 feet long done this way with about 60 feet of new climbing for the direct start.

Thanks to Andrew and Nathan for new bolts and new information. Directly from Nathan:

Andrew recently decided to add 3 bolts to this pitch [described above] In the process, a much easier and even more direct start was discovered after the removal of loose debris. It's called "Use It Express" and listed in the database.

Location

Go up to the tree ledge left of the slabby apron where Manatee fluid starts. The obvious crack in the Middle of this ledge is the start of Nana's Bananas. This route starts about 30 feet left of Nana's Bananas just right of an obvious steep black water streak which is the continuation of the water groove of Use it or Luge it.

Protection

Offset cams and tricams are nice to have. The direct start wont take anything larger than #2 camalot though when you get to the pillar you could place most sizes.