Use it or Luge it Direct Start
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Laurel Knob
'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Biopsy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R | |
Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2 | |
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Gibbet , The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
High & Dry T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X | |
Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Mechanical Bull T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 | |
Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0 | |
Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
O.K. Corral T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Permission Granite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 | |
Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Seconds T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 PG13 | |
Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
Type: | Trad, 60 ft |
FA: | Andrew M. - November 2009 |
Page Views: | 130 total · 1/month |
Shared By: | andjoely on Nov 29, 2009 with updates |
Admins: | Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry |
Description
Place gear in horizontal to prevent you from tumbling way down slab if you blow moves to first bolt. Clip first bolt, decipher a well protected, tricky crux. Climb past another bolt (added by FA party, 2014) and good holds (5.9+), then mantle and clip the third (used to be the second) bolt.
Continue up to a flared crack 5 feet higher which takes offset cams and tricams. Climb up and left on cool face holds to another crack which takes medium cams. Climb up the water groove and the face next to it to a stance in the groove, just before it steepens. Here, people used to undertake a 5.8X traverse left to #1 Camalot placement, and then back right into the groove to finish the pitch. In 2014 the FA party added two bolts in the groove, creating a more direct pitch. The whole first pitch is about 150 feet long done this way with about 60 feet of new climbing for the direct start.
Andrew recently decided to add 3 bolts to this pitch [described above] In the process, a much easier and even more direct start was discovered after the removal of loose debris. It's called "Use It Express" and listed in the database.
Continue up to a flared crack 5 feet higher which takes offset cams and tricams. Climb up and left on cool face holds to another crack which takes medium cams. Climb up the water groove and the face next to it to a stance in the groove, just before it steepens. Here, people used to undertake a 5.8X traverse left to #1 Camalot placement, and then back right into the groove to finish the pitch. In 2014 the FA party added two bolts in the groove, creating a more direct pitch. The whole first pitch is about 150 feet long done this way with about 60 feet of new climbing for the direct start.
- Thanks to Andrew and Nathan for new bolts and new information. Directly from Nathan:
Andrew recently decided to add 3 bolts to this pitch [described above] In the process, a much easier and even more direct start was discovered after the removal of loose debris. It's called "Use It Express" and listed in the database.
Location
Go up to the tree ledge left of the slabby apron where Manatee fluid starts. The obvious crack in the Middle of this ledge is the start of Nana's Bananas. This route starts about 30 feet left of Nana's Bananas just right of an obvious steep black water streak which is the continuation of the water groove of Use it or Luge it.
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