Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Nathan Brown - rope solo
Page Views: 2,708 total · 32/month
Shared By: nbrown on Feb 2, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This is a really nice 3 pitch face line just right of Hypocrites Corner, and just left of Non-profit profiteer ( aka Old Tom Woodruff route). Each pitch has very fun 5.10 climbing on rock that is more featured than usual for Laurel -- more like something straight out of Tuolumne. The last bit on the last pitch is truly amazing! It's also possible to rap the route with a single 60 meter rope.

Note: This route is often running water in the morning but will actually dry out with a couple hours of sunlight.

P-1 Start at a short crack with grass growing out of it -- Climb the cool sculpted holds to a high bolt. Continue past 4 more bolts on fantastic and well featured rock to a 2 bolt belay. The bolts are fairly well spaced but protect the hardest moves very well. No gear.

P-2 Climb the water streak past 3 bolts and into a short right facing corner (protected by finger sized cam). Mantel up onto slab and pad your way to the ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. Careful here if the streak is wet.

P-3 Crux your way up to a flake (finger sized cams, including a possible hybrid at the top part of flake). Move up to bolt on surprisingly good holds, and step right to cracks. Climb the cracks and flakes (protected with finger - hand sized cams -- sling long!) to a line of 3 bolts that lead through the amazing headwall. 2 bolt anchor at 95'. NOTE: The cracks on this pitch are still a bit grungy but will clean up nicely with some traffic. The climbing above is well worth the effort to get to!

Rap route with 1 60 meter rope by swinging right at the last rap, and down-climbing a short bushy section.

Location

In Dillard Canyon on the left wall (walking uphill). Just right of "Hypocrites Corner", and just left of "Non-profit profiteer" (Old Tom Woodruff route).

Protection

standard LK rack up to hand sized cams. Medium sized hybrid could be useful in the top of flake at the start of P-3.

Photos

andjoely
Menlo Park, CA
andjoely   Menlo Park, CA
Highly recommended route. It's probably 5.8R to the first bolt of P1 but after that the route is pretty well protected. The only gear I placed was an orange TCU on P2 and an assortment of cams up to #2 camalot including hybrids for the first 40 feet of P3. Apr 9, 2012
Stephen Scoff
Columbia, South Carolina
 
Stephen Scoff   Columbia, South Carolina
 
Great variety! Another MUST DO route! Mar 6, 2014