Finger Lickin' Good [Suggest Change]
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
Routes in Laurel Knob
'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Biopsy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R | |
Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2 | |
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Gibbet, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
High & Dry T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X | |
Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Mechanical Bull T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 | |
Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0 | |
Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
O.K. Corral T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Permission Granite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 | |
Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Seconds T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 PG13 | |
Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Type: | Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches |
FA: | Nathan Brown - rope solo |
Page Views: | 2,616 total · 34/month |
Shared By: | nbrown on Feb 2, 2012 |
Admins: | Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry |
Description [Suggest Change]
This is a really nice 3 pitch face line just right of Hypocrites Corner, and just left of Non-profit profiteer ( aka Old Tom Woodruff route). Each pitch has very fun 5.10 climbing on rock that is more featured than usual for Laurel -- more like something straight out of Tuolumne. The last bit on the last pitch is truly amazing! It's also possible to rap the route with a single 60 meter rope.
Note: This route is often running water in the morning but will actually dry out with a couple hours of sunlight.
P-1 Start at a short crack with grass growing out of it -- Climb the cool sculpted holds to a high bolt. Continue past 4 more bolts on fantastic and well featured rock to a 2 bolt belay. The bolts are fairly well spaced but protect the hardest moves very well. No gear.
P-2 Climb the water streak past 3 bolts and into a short right facing corner (protected by finger sized cam). Mantel up onto slab and pad your way to the ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. Careful here if the streak is wet.
P-3 Crux your way up to a flake (finger sized cams, including a possible hybrid at the top part of flake). Move up to bolt on surprisingly good holds, and step right to cracks. Climb the cracks and flakes (protected with finger - hand sized cams -- sling long!) to a line of 3 bolts that lead through the amazing headwall. 2 bolt anchor at 95'. NOTE: The cracks on this pitch are still a bit grungy but will clean up nicely with some traffic. The climbing above is well worth the effort to get to!
Rap route with 1 60 meter rope by swinging right at the last rap, and down-climbing a short bushy section.
Note: This route is often running water in the morning but will actually dry out with a couple hours of sunlight.
P-1 Start at a short crack with grass growing out of it -- Climb the cool sculpted holds to a high bolt. Continue past 4 more bolts on fantastic and well featured rock to a 2 bolt belay. The bolts are fairly well spaced but protect the hardest moves very well. No gear.
P-2 Climb the water streak past 3 bolts and into a short right facing corner (protected by finger sized cam). Mantel up onto slab and pad your way to the ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. Careful here if the streak is wet.
P-3 Crux your way up to a flake (finger sized cams, including a possible hybrid at the top part of flake). Move up to bolt on surprisingly good holds, and step right to cracks. Climb the cracks and flakes (protected with finger - hand sized cams -- sling long!) to a line of 3 bolts that lead through the amazing headwall. 2 bolt anchor at 95'. NOTE: The cracks on this pitch are still a bit grungy but will clean up nicely with some traffic. The climbing above is well worth the effort to get to!
Rap route with 1 60 meter rope by swinging right at the last rap, and down-climbing a short bushy section.
Location [Suggest Change]
In Dillard Canyon on the left wall (walking uphill). Just right of "Hypocrites Corner", and just left of "Non-profit profiteer" (Old Tom Woodruff route).
Protection [Suggest Change]
standard LK rack up to hand sized cams. Medium sized hybrid could be useful in the top of flake at the start of P-3.
Menlo Park, CA
Columbia, South Carolina