Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Nathan Brown - rope solo
Page Views: 3,268 total · 31/month
Shared By: nbrown on Feb 2, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details
Access Issue: Falcon Nest near Fathom Details

Description

This is a really nice 3 pitch face line just right of Hypocrites Corner, and just left of Non-profit profiteer ( aka Old Tom Woodruff route). Each pitch has very fun 5.10 climbing on rock that is more featured than usual for Laurel -- more like something straight out of Tuolumne. The last bit on the last pitch is truly amazing! It's also possible to rap the route with a single 60 meter rope.

Note: This route is often running water in the morning but will actually dry out with a couple hours of sunlight.

P-1 Start at a short crack with grass growing out of it -- Climb the cool sculpted holds to a high bolt. Continue past 4 more bolts on fantastic and well featured rock to a 2 bolt belay. The bolts are fairly well spaced but protect the hardest moves very well. No gear.

P-2 Climb the water streak past 3 bolts and into a short right facing corner (protected by finger sized cam). Mantel up onto slab and pad your way to the ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. Careful here if the streak is wet.

P-3 Crux your way up to a flake (finger sized cams, including a possible hybrid at the top part of flake). Move up to bolt on surprisingly good holds, and step right to cracks. Climb the cracks and flakes (protected with finger - hand sized cams -- sling long!) to a line of 3 bolts that lead through the amazing headwall. 2 bolt anchor at 95'. NOTE: The cracks on this pitch are still a bit grungy but will clean up nicely with some traffic. The climbing above is well worth the effort to get to!

Rap route with 1 60 meter rope by swinging right at the last rap, and down-climbing a short bushy section.

Location

In Dillard Canyon on the left wall (walking uphill). Just right of "Hypocrites Corner", and just left of "Non-profit profiteer" (Old Tom Woodruff route).

Protection

standard LK rack up to hand sized cams. Medium sized hybrid could be useful in the top of flake at the start of P-3.

Photos