Use It Or Luge It
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
Routes in Laurel Knob
'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Biopsy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R | |
Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2 | |
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Gibbet , The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
High & Dry T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X | |
Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Mechanical Bull T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 | |
Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0 | |
Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
O.K. Corral T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Permission Granite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 | |
Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Seconds T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 PG13 | |
Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
Type: | Trad, Sport, 700 ft, 4 pitches |
FA: | Thomas Kelley, Mark Stroud, Phil Rosenthal - 1988 |
Page Views: | 262 total · 2/month |
Shared By: | Martin Jacaruso on Jul 27, 2009 |
Admins: | Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry |
Clemson, S.C.
Clemson, S.C.
P1: Go up the slab to the left side of bulge. This a small section of chunky quartz. Get gear below this, then move straight up to the far away first bolt. Continue straight up to reach a short slash at the same height as the detached pillar to the right. Get gear here and make the traverse right to the pillar. Climb past three bolts using the face then the water groove to reach the anchors. 200'
P2: Follow the line of bolts straight up. Pretty sustained 5.10 grooving and face climbing.
P3: 5.9R. Make a long runout right off the belay doing pretty sustained 5.9 climbing to reach some gear then the first bolt. A navy or white tricam may work well before the bolt. Pull the funky bulge using groove and chimney techniques. The next two bulges are both 5.9, but the gear is below the bulge in a slabby pod. If you fell pulling the last two bulges, injury is highly likely. Continue up to an old anchor with suspect nylon. These bolts should be replaced, or just skip the third pitch.
We didn't use anything larger than a #2 camalot. We placed one medium sized nut, .3-2, lots of slings for extension, and double ropes highly recommend for P1. Oct 30, 2017