All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Laurel Knob

Use It Express

Name: Use It Express
Rating: 3.0

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Laurel Knob

L › R R › L A › Z

	'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Biopsy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2
	Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Gibbet, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	High & Dry T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
	Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mechanical Bull T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0
	Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	O.K. Corral T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Permission Granite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
	Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Seconds T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Stranger Than Friction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Tastes Like Chicken T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 PG13
	Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 180 ft (55 m)
FA:	Nathan Brown
Page Views:	607 total · 7/month
Shared By:	nbrown on May 28, 2014
Admins:	Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Falcon Nest near Fathom Details

An active peregrine falcon nest has been located near Fathom. Please do not go near this area of the cliff until August 2020.

Description

I've been meaning to post up this nice doubly direct-start for a while now...

Discovered while assisting Andrew M. with adding bolts to his direct variation, this route cleaned up very well upon removal of a few key loose flakes, leaving behind great holds on steep rock. As is, it's probably the best way to start Use It Or Luge It (at least in the sub 11+ range), as it only goes at 9+ at the start, and 10- at the top, which is the short second pitch of Use It...

Start out left on the apron in a short right facing corner with a god TCU at full reach. Climb past this and through the steeper wall past 2 bolts on good holds to merge into the groove above the crux of the direct start. Continue up past 2 more bolts (new ones thanks to Andrew) to merge into the original 2nd pitch. Continue past 3 more bolts and a key #.75 camelot to the anchor. 180' This is a nice and straight moderate line.