Hostis Humani Generis
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | DV, Scott Basso, Chad Garner, Alex Willis (ground up) |
Page Views: | 983 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | Dylan Valvo on Oct 3, 2021 |
Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This route climbs the groove that creates the original Groover (gaskin finish) from start to finish. When hiking in to do this climb take note of Get It While It’s Hot on the right side of the wall. If it’s dry then this route will most likely be dry too.
Pitch 1 has three options that I will list in order of quality.
The best start is to climb pitch one of Fruit of the Poisonous Tree (5.12+). Look for the anchors down and to the left under the big obvious groove and climb downward to them. This pitch currently has a precarious placement in the .75/1” range that you need to get right. This pitch is also on the gnar side of things and you need to have it together jumping off the couch onto this first thing in the day. Good temps are a must.
Option two is scramble up onto the tree ledge and climb the crack to the left of forbidden fruit. Then traverse right to gain the end of forbidden fruits bolt ladder. This goes somewhere in the C1/2 5.9 range and is a much more favorable start than FF. Bring extra small to medium gear.
Option 3 climb forbidden fruits ugly and unnecessary bolt ladder then free climb right to anchors. A0 5.9 bring some rivets or wired stoppers that slide for rivets.
Pitch 2 move right off the belay and climb the mega sustained water groove. At the last bolt traverse right and build gear belay 5.12 170’
Pitch 3 climb up slab and then trend left to return into the water groove. Continue to bolted belay 5.10+ 170’
Pitch 4 continue up groove and through bulges to bolted belay. 5.11+ 160’
Pitch 5, 6 & 7 finish up Groover via gaskin finish 400’
Rap Fruit of a Forbidden Fruit and transfer into FOTPT but be careful with your rope lengths. Then if you want you can easily continue down HHG by moving over another groove and going to the left on the pitch 3 rap which will put you at the pitch 2 anchors of the Dike Hike. Then one more 60meter rap puts you on the ground
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