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Routes in Laurel Knob
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'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Biopsy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2 |
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Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Gibbet, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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High & Dry T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Hostis Humani Generis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mechanical Bull T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0 |
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Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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O.K. Corral T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Permission Granite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pipsissewa T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Quantum Mechanic's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Seconds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Stranger Than Friction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Tastes Like Chicken T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 PG13 |
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Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Andrew M., Shannon Stegg (March 2010) |
| Page Views: | 1,746 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | andjoely on Mar 29, 2010 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry |
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Access Issue: Falcon Closure 2023
Details
Feb 1- Aug 14: Routes between, and including, Fathom to Permission Granite are closed to climbing during this period.
carolinaclimbers.org/node/1252
carolinaclimbers.org/node/1252
Description
This route offers a better 2nd pitch option for the route Wild Wild west in Dillard Canyon.
When climbing Wild Wild West, break right from one of the last bolts to the two-bolt ring anchor on a sloping ledge atop the left-facing dihedral 20 feet to the right. From this anchor, follow the bolts with some gear in between to a nice ledge atop the cliff with a two-bolt ring anchor. above the 4th bolt are some key large nut placements placed sideways. from here there is a bolt straight above you but climb left up to a flake then back right to clip it. The crux is above a small cam about 5 feet above the 3rd bolt and is somewhat heady because it would not be fun if the cam ripped. Otherwise the climbing is fairly well protected and very fun.
I originally led it ground up with three bolts drilled from stances, but I added three bolts because the original bolts (currently the first, the 3rd, and the 6th) were in stupid spots, resulting in a lot of rope drag and poorly protected climbing in some spots.
When climbing Wild Wild West, break right from one of the last bolts to the two-bolt ring anchor on a sloping ledge atop the left-facing dihedral 20 feet to the right. From this anchor, follow the bolts with some gear in between to a nice ledge atop the cliff with a two-bolt ring anchor. above the 4th bolt are some key large nut placements placed sideways. from here there is a bolt straight above you but climb left up to a flake then back right to clip it. The crux is above a small cam about 5 feet above the 3rd bolt and is somewhat heady because it would not be fun if the cam ripped. Otherwise the climbing is fairly well protected and very fun.
I originally led it ground up with three bolts drilled from stances, but I added three bolts because the original bolts (currently the first, the 3rd, and the 6th) were in stupid spots, resulting in a lot of rope drag and poorly protected climbing in some spots.
Location
In Dillard Canyon on the Wild West wall. Climb Wild Wild West and break right from one of the last bolts to the two-bolt ring anchor 20 feet to the right atop a dihedral.
Protection
6 protection bolts, 2 bolt ring anchor at bottom and top of the pitch. They crux is protected by a key shallow and somewhat blind to place green C3 cam or possibly a well worn blue TCU in a horizontal pod 8 feet above the 3rd bolt (a green alien was slightly too big) also bring large nuts for placements above the 4th bolt and cams to #1 camalot for the lieback flake above the 5th bolt
Photos
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