Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Andrew M., Shannon Stegg (March 2010)
Page Views: 2,013 total · 12/month
Shared By: Andrew McDowell on Mar 29, 2010
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

This route offers a 2nd pitch option for either of the routes "Wild Wild West" or "Puff the Magic Dragon" in Dillard Canyon. 

Warning: Climbing at Laurel Knob is extremely dangerous due to long runouts, poor protection, difficult route finding, rappel descents, and other factors. The information in this posting is provided for informational and historical purposes only to aid in understanding roughly where the route has been climbed before. Information provided is approximate, subjective, and based upon sometimes vague memories of recreational climber(s) that may not have been recorded until long after climbing the route. As such, the information is unverified and may be inaccurate, incomplete, and/or misleading. Any person(s) attempting to climb this route or any others does so at their own risk using their own routefinding skills and judgement and shall not rely on any information in this posting. Bolts and fixed anchors left in place on the route were placed so as to protect the first ascent party (often placed from strenuous stances while drilling on lead in traditional style), but it is neither claimed nor implied that such anchors as well as removable protection placement locations are safe or suitable to protect further ascents. It is the responsibility of persons climbing the route to thoroughly inspect bolts/fixed anchors before deciding to use them.

If climbing Wild Wild West as pitch 1, break right from one of the last bolts to the two-bolt ring anchor on a sloping ledge atop the left-facing dihedral 20 feet to the right. If climbing Puff the Magic Dragon as pitch 1, that route ends at this anchor. 

From this anchor, follow the bolts with some gear in between to a nice ledge atop the cliff with a two-bolt ring anchor. The crux involves insecure moves above a questionable shallow green C3 about 8 feet above the 3rd bolt (see protection section for more info). If this cam were to rip, a fall could be quite nasty likely resulting in hitting some small ledge features and such.

Above the 4th bolt or thereabouts, there are some key large sideways nut placements. From here there is a bolt straight above, but one climbs left up to a flake then back right to clip it.

The route was originally led in a very runout and much less direct but slightly easier way with only 3 protection bolts (currently the first, the 3rd, and the 6th).

Location Suggest change

In Dillard Canyon on the Wild West wall. Offers a 2nd pitch option for either of the routes "Wild Wild West" or "Puff the Magic Dragon"

Protection Suggest change

6 protection bolts, 2 bolt ring anchor at bottom and top of the pitch. They crux is protected by a key shallow and somewhat blind to place green C3 cam (similar sized other cams didn't seem to fit) in a shallow horizontal pod 8 feet above the 3rd bolt. As this piece appears questionable and most cam brands/models don't fit, the FA party recommends that a bolt be added here. Also bring large nuts for placements above the 4th bolt and cams to #1 camalot for the lieback flake above the 5th bolt.


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