Type: Trad, 700 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bruce Burgess and Sean Cobourn March 1, 2008
Page Views: 381 total · 3/month
Shared By: Sean Cobourn on Mar 12, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Towards right side of cliff, between Stranger Than Friction (to left) and Use It Or Luge It (to right)is a shallow water groove. Go up a forested ramp before the bridge to a belay spot shared with Use It.
1. Climb up and left towards the groove, which is more of a black streak down low. The first bolt is a good ways out and is right of the streak. Cross the streak to the next bolt, then head back right and up to a large feature. Climb through this to the right, then up past another bolt to the large slash about 200 feet up. 5.8
2. Pull the slash at the broken flake into the crux section. A couple bolts interspersed with gear get you to a right rising ramp. Climb it to its end, then follow the crystal sidewalk left to the belay. 5.10+
3. Climb more or less straight up past a few bolts to a belay beneath another slashing feature. 5.9
4. Step left into the groove and climb it until the vegetation. Step right to the face and go straight up to the last set of rings. You will pass a bolt out to the right. This is part of the girdle traverse of LK. 5.9

Location

Between Stranger Than Friction and Use It Or Luge It 

Protection

one set of nuts and cams to 2.5" should suffice.

Photos

Nice name and topo! Can't wait to get on it. Mar 13, 2008
Superb face and friction climbing. Double ropes would be nice but not essential.

A must do LK route! Nov 11, 2008
andjoely
Menlo Park, CA
  5.10+
andjoely   Menlo Park, CA
  5.10+
incredibly awesome holds on the 2nd pitch and good climbing all the way up. One of the best routes on the cliff to do when most of the other stuff is wet cause this thing drys out almost instantly after wet weather. Highly reccomended. Apr 21, 2012
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
  5.11a
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
  5.11a
Really liked the route...although I found myself doing a bit of wandering in places trying to find the correct (easiest) path. The second pitch holds some of the best climbing on the route. I also thought the climbing was very consistent/sustained...not alot of easy stuff with a move or two. Mostly the other way around...lots of sustained climbing with a few easy moves and some harder moves. Also...the foot bridge is gone..if you are looking for a point of reference. Light rack to #1 C4 covered us - don't think I placed anything over a #1. Feb 25, 2014
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.10+
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.10+
Great climb! I would skip the last pitch. It is very dirty. Mar 2, 2014