Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Started by Mike Fischesser and Joe Lackey, finished via group effort.
Page Views: 1,099 total · 14/month
Shared By: nbrown on Mar 8, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details
Access Issue: Falcon Nest near Fathom Details

Description

This is a great climb for those looking for a slightly harder and spicier version of Central Pillar of Laurel. The first 3 pitches are 10ish, but the last headwall pitch is 11. The first 3 are the best which is why I rated this 5.10 on here.

Originally climbed up to the start of pitch 3 by the FA team. The route lay dormant for years until several teams had climbed above the original highpoint via moderate but extremely runout terrain. A hard pitch was also established through the headwall that happened to be directly above these lower pitches, so it naturally made a good direct finish. With the graces of the original FA party, the disconnected pitches were connected nicely by adding a bolt and a belay to pitch 3.

P-1
Start just left of Central Pillar, and climb the left diagonal crack to a face. Continue up the face past a bolt or two to a 2 bolt anchor.

P-2
Continue up, following the dike past 3 or so bolts to the belay of Stemming Laurel.

P-3
Step back out right and climb past 2 bolts to a high 3rd one. From here wander up the wall and slightly left into a crack system that eventually ends at a funky move onto the slab. The belay is just a bit higher at around 190'.

P-4
This pitch is harder than the suggested 10 grade -- it's mid 11 and optional. It's also possible to traverse either right of left to easier terrain, or to rap. Climb up to a bolt and arund the bulge to the headwall. Climb the headwall on bolts and gear to the big tree ledge and a shared anchor with Central Pillar Direct Finish.

Location

This is the dike between Stemming Laurel and Central Pillar. In the guidebook it's listed as project.

Protection

Normal LK rack.

Photos