Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Started by Mike Fischesser and Joe Lackey, finished via group effort.
Page Views: 725 total · 13/month
Shared By: nbrown on Mar 8, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This is a great climb for those looking for a slightly harder and spicier version of Central Pillar of Laurel. The first 3 pitches are 10ish, but the last headwall pitch is 11. The first 3 are the best which is why I rated this 5.10 on here.

Originally climbed up to the start of pitch 3 by the FA team. The route lay dormant for years until several teams had climbed above the original highpoint via moderate but extremely runout terrain. A hard pitch was also established through the headwall that happened to be directly above these lower pitches, so it naturally made a good direct finish. With the graces of the original FA party, the disconnected pitches were connected nicely by adding a bolt and a belay to pitch 3.

P-1
Start just left of Central Pillar, and climb the left diagonal crack to a face. Continue up the face past a bolt or two to a 2 bolt anchor.

P-2
Continue up, following the dike past 3 or so bolts to the belay of Stemming Laurel.

P-3
Step back out right and climb past 2 bolts to a high 3rd one. From here wander up the wall and slightly left into a crack system that eventually ends at a funky move onto the slab. The belay is just a bit higher at around 190'.

P-4
This pitch is harder than the suggested 10 grade -- it's mid 11 and optional. It's also possible to traverse either right of left to easier terrain, or to rap. Climb up to a bolt and arund the bulge to the headwall. Climb the headwall on bolts and gear to the big tree ledge and a shared anchor with Central Pillar Direct Finish.

Location

This is the dike between Stemming Laurel and Central Pillar. In the guidebook it's listed as project.

Protection

Normal LK rack.

Photos

Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Climbed the first 2 pitches of this routes last summer and really enjoyed it. Looking forward to climbing the rest...or at least the third pitch. Thanks! Mar 10, 2014
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
WOW! That 3rd pitch will make ya proud. Definitely more spicy than it's neighbor. That move near the end of the very long 3rd pitch might make you pause for a moment. Jun 15, 2014