Old Times' Sake
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
Routes in Laurel Knob
'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Biopsy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R | |
Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2 | |
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Gibbet, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R | |
Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
High & Dry T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X | |
Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R | |
Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Mechanical Bull T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 | |
Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0 | |
Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
O.K. Corral T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Permission Granite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 | |
Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Seconds T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Stranger Than Friction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R | |
Tastes Like Chicken T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 PG13 | |
Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Started by Mike Fischesser and Joe Lackey, finished via group effort. |
Page Views: | 1,308 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | nbrown on Mar 8, 2014 |
Admins: | Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry |
Access Issue: Falcon Nest near Fathom
Details
An active peregrine falcon nest has been located near Fathom. Please do not go near this area of the cliff until August 2020.
Description
This is a great climb for those looking for a slightly harder and spicier version of Central Pillar of Laurel. The first 3 pitches are 10ish, but the last headwall pitch is 11. The first 3 are the best which is why I rated this 5.10 on here.
Originally climbed up to the start of pitch 3 by the FA team. The route lay dormant for years until several teams had climbed above the original highpoint via moderate but extremely runout terrain. A hard pitch was also established through the headwall that happened to be directly above these lower pitches, so it naturally made a good direct finish. With the graces of the original FA party, the disconnected pitches were connected nicely by adding a bolt and a belay to pitch 3.
P-1
Start just left of Central Pillar, and climb the left diagonal crack to a face. Continue up the face past a bolt or two to a 2 bolt anchor.
P-2
Continue up, following the dike past 3 or so bolts to the belay of Stemming Laurel.
P-3
Step back out right and climb past 2 bolts to a high 3rd one. From here wander up the wall and slightly left into a crack system that eventually ends at a funky move onto the slab. The belay is just a bit higher at around 190'.
P-4
This pitch is harder than the suggested 10 grade -- it's mid 11 and optional. It's also possible to traverse either right of left to easier terrain, or to rap. Climb up to a bolt and arund the bulge to the headwall. Climb the headwall on bolts and gear to the big tree ledge and a shared anchor with Central Pillar Direct Finish.
Originally climbed up to the start of pitch 3 by the FA team. The route lay dormant for years until several teams had climbed above the original highpoint via moderate but extremely runout terrain. A hard pitch was also established through the headwall that happened to be directly above these lower pitches, so it naturally made a good direct finish. With the graces of the original FA party, the disconnected pitches were connected nicely by adding a bolt and a belay to pitch 3.
P-1
Start just left of Central Pillar, and climb the left diagonal crack to a face. Continue up the face past a bolt or two to a 2 bolt anchor.
P-2
Continue up, following the dike past 3 or so bolts to the belay of Stemming Laurel.
P-3
Step back out right and climb past 2 bolts to a high 3rd one. From here wander up the wall and slightly left into a crack system that eventually ends at a funky move onto the slab. The belay is just a bit higher at around 190'.
P-4
This pitch is harder than the suggested 10 grade -- it's mid 11 and optional. It's also possible to traverse either right of left to easier terrain, or to rap. Climb up to a bolt and arund the bulge to the headwall. Climb the headwall on bolts and gear to the big tree ledge and a shared anchor with Central Pillar Direct Finish.
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