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Routes in Laurel Knob

'Shimer Down T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aloha slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Annie Get Your Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrested Development T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Before the Settlers Arrive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Better late than never T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Biopsy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Flag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buried Treasure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Canyons of Laurel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Central Pillar of Laurel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clippidy Doodah... S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clowns to the Left of me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Cotton Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cruising with the Top Down T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Defective Sonar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dike hike - Monster Groove T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dillard Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Don't call me surely T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dry streak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Fathom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fathom Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Fathom Escape Hatch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Friction Addiction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Frolictown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Funky Chicken, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Get it while it's hot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Gibbet , The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Girl friend route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Have and Not Need T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High & Dry T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hone Ranger T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Hypocrite's Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jokers to the right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Keel Hauled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Laurel's Snake Dike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Manatee Fluid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Manatee Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mechanical Bull T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Mirage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Mirage Direct Finish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0
Monster Groove Reject Start T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mutiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Nana's Bananas T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
O.K. Corral T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Times' Sake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Permission Granite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pirate's Cove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Pirate's cove Alt start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Puff The Magic Dragon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rejected Radar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Rock Eating Tree T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Route Of The Living Dead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Seconds T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squirrely man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Stellar Sonar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Stemming Laurel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stingray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Two Rattlers in Your Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unfathomable T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 PG13
Use It Express T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Use It Or Luge It T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Walkin' Da Plank T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Wild Turkeys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Wild Wild West T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wormhole T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 750 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Fischesser, Clawes 1990-92
Page Views: 1,541 total, 15/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Jul 5, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

P1 5.8 face and slab past some gear and two bolts to a two bolt anchor beow the groove/crack. 110'
P2 5.9 flaring crack and groove climbing for 80' to easier ground to a two bolt anchor below a hanging block. 140'
P3 more 5.9 groove past two bolts to the next anchors...two bolts belay. 140'
P4 the 5.10+ crux pitch pitch through the headwall utilizing the groove and face...many bolts...to a double bolt belay. 140'
P5 5.8 groove to the Lost World Ledge. 110'

Rap the route.

Location

Right of Oasis, left of Central Pillar

Protection

double cams, tricams, lots of draws for the crux pitch, two ropes.

Photos

nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Finally did that crux pitch yesterday - classic pitch for sure! Definitely the best pitch of the route, but not harder than 10+, especially when compared to other lines at Laurel. Note regarding the reachy clips: several of the re-placed bolts were positioned right of the old ones making it even more of a reach - but still not too bad. Would've been good if they'd been moved a few inches to the left instead (where the climbing is). Oct 12, 2012
Finally got to climb the 4th ptich last Saturday. Fantastic route! I agree with Tommy about the crux pitch, 5.10++. The 2nd and 3rd bolts are hard to clip. I'm not tall but I was glad I wasn't any shorter.

I really like variety of moves on the 2nd pitch and found it's the one with the most pro and far from runout. Here's the gear I got pretty much equally spaced throughout the pitch: .4 C4, #4 C4 in horizontal ant next stance, #1 C4, #1 C3, yellow alien, 12 or 13 BD stopper, two #2 C4s, another #1 C4 and two #3 C4s. Some of the gear isn't obvious, but it's all there and quite bomber. (no offsets or tricams) Aug 15, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
P1 is definitely 5.8. Make sure you get gear before the bolt, small tcu.

P2 is not as runout as some may think. The flared groove took several tri-cams. I had a set of 6, black and navy blue and the set of four anodized pink to purple(.25-3). We also had a mix of the metolius and bd cams in the #1 C4 size and lower with singles up to #3 C4. There were several constriction in the crack that took cams nicely in between the tri-cams placements. If you want more specifics email me.

P3 now this is a runout pitch. There are several sections of hard groove climbing well above gear, but the hardest groove move is protected well by a bolt. You just don't ever want to leave that ledge!

P4 this is severely runout off the belay. No gear until that 1st bolt, which is ~30' off the belay with a technical move to get to it! The next section is hard to call 10+, maybe 10++++... Felt this was sandbagged and the bolts were too far off the climbing line to the right (possibly rap bolted or bolt-laddered?). Once your clipping, the falls are pretty safe with a healthy swing. This pitch was just too sustained, technical, and difficult for us. Got tired of swinging out so we bailed off the fourth bolt. Probably could have aided through. Good luck! Apr 4, 2011
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
I'm told this is the route Tyler and I did last year. I led the first and third. The first seemed more like 10A, 5.9 R. The second pitch was runout, but a set of wild country offset cams tamed it somewhat. Tyler was talking to me. I found this pitch to be an awkward 10 A or B. I didn't lead but probably still R with the offsets. I went most of the way up the third pitch and then down-climbed. I was a bit numb after the upper pitches of oasis, and the third pitch groove seemed hard (10+) and runout. Interesting to see the last pitch is well bolted. Considering the difficulty we faced on the rest of he route, I'd guess it is well bolted for good reason--perhaps the same party grading this as the crux pitch of upper Oasis? Jan 14, 2010
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
 
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
 
Full disclaimer: I followed P1 which seemed harder than 5.8. Led P2 until 30' out from my last piece which was 30' above the belay with 20' to go with no visible pro...it had been a long, hot day and I must have missed something on the second pitch...a downclimb ensued. Posted this route as it has a positive reputation and wanted others' opinions....what did I do wrong? Jul 5, 2009