Type: Trad, Aid, 875 ft (265 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mike Fischesser, Joe Lovenshimer, Brad Wilson 2012
Page Views: 2,877 total · 21/month
Shared By: Brad Wilson on Dec 25, 2012
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

This is a fun and varied route: slab, aid with mandatory free, and water groove. Two ring anchors at each belay.

P1 (5.9) 160' Climb up and right passing bolts and natural protection. You will find a bit of a runout to the first bolt on the easy slab, some natural gear out right, and then a couple bolts by the crux moves reaching the belay.

P2 (5.10) 185' Climb left off of the belay, then straight up passing bolts. When the bolts run out you will find natural protection. Stay to the left of the mossy ledge, find protection above the mossy area, and pull the few moves up to the anchor and ledge.

P3 (5.9) 100' Follow the crack to its top, step up onto the slab, then climb up and right passing protection bolts to the anchor.

P4 (5.11 A2) Free & aid your way up this imposing pitch.  I found a large DMM offset nut to be helpful in two places aiding over the bulge.   Above that you will find some steep jugs, and a hard mantle exit.

P5 (5.10 A0) Stem up to & A0 from a bolt. Climb the groove past bolts and natural protection.  It is quite tricky to stand up into the scoop. The rest of the pitch is awesome LK grooving in a great position on the head-wall.

P6 (5.10) 55' Climb the groove past bolts.

P7 (5.10) Continue up the groove passing bolts and natural protection.

Rap the route

Location Suggest change

Start right of Stegg Roy Fathom ALT start and the 1972/3 Fulton/Mitchell attempt and left of the high pine tree where Fathom Direct begins.

Protection Suggest change

(2) 60M ropes
(2) 000 C3 - .75 C4 (orange alien and green yellow offset alien helpful)
(1) #1 C4 - #4 C4
(1) large offset nuts
(1) rps/offset brass nuts (optional)
(2) KBs
(2) Rivet Hangers

Photos

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