Type: Trad, Aid, 875 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mike Fischesser, Joe Lovenshimer, Brad Wilson 2012
Page Views: 1,775 total · 24/month
Shared By: BradWilson on Dec 25, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun and varied route: slab, aid with mandatory free, and water groove. Two ring anchors at each belay.

P1 (5.9) 160' Climb up and right passing bolts and natural protection. You will find a bit of a runout to the first bolt on the easy slab, some natural gear out right, and then a couple bolts by the crux moves reaching the belay.

P2 (5.10) 185' Climb left off of the belay via somewhat of a mantle move (if my memory serves me correctly), then straight up passing bolts. When the bolts run out you will find natural protection. Stay to the left of the mossy ledge, find a cam (#3 C4) above the mossy area, and pull the few moves up to the anchor and ledge.

P3 (5.9) 100' Follow the crack to its top, step up onto the slab, then climb up and right passing protection bolts to the anchor beneath the awesome next pitch.

P4 (5.11 A2) Free & aid your way up this imposing pitch. The pitch has been led at 5.11 C2. Bolts, rivets, natural protection. I found a large DMM offset nut to be essential in two places aiding over the bulge (back clean it after you clip a bolt above) The hard mandatory free climbing is just a bit of stemming as seen in the picture. Above that you will find some steep jugs, then a few more moves of Aid to reach the exit mantle. This is the most awesome mantle I have had to perform at Laurel. If it were a boulder problem, Id say maybe V4?

P5 (5.10 A0) Stem up to & A0 from a bolt. Climb the groove past bolts and natural protection. This pitch really is fun, the A0 move is no gimme, even with the bolt, it is quite tricky and fun to stand up into the scoop. The rest of the pitch is awesome LK grooving in a phenomenal position on the head-wall.

P6 (5.10) 55' Climb the groove past bolts.

P7 (5.10) Continue up the groove passing bolts and natural protection.

Rap the route

Location

Start right of "Cruising With the Top Down/Fathom ALT start" & the 1972/3 Fulton/Mitchell attempt & left of the high pine tree where Fathom Direct begins.

Protection

(2) 60M ropes
(2) 000 C3 - .75 C4 (orange alien and green yellow offset alien helpful)
(1) #1 C4 - #4 C4
(1) large offset nuts
(1) rps/offset brass nuts (optional)
(2) KBs
(2) Rivet Hangers

Photos

nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
Thanks for posting Brad! I always wondered about that groove. You think this thing will ever go all free? Dec 31, 2012
BradWilson
  5.11 A2
BradWilson  
  5.11 A2
Pitch 4 may go free...it could be 13+ or harder? I tried to place the protection bolts for the aid and the eventual free climber. Dec 31, 2012
Looks fucking awesome!!!! nice style too, will be a classic free direct when it goes! great work guys. Jan 24, 2013