Unfathomable
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British A1 R
Type: | Trad, Aid, 945 ft (286 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Andrew M., James M., Nathan B. |
Page Views: | 3,237 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Andrew McDowell on Jul 26, 2010 |
Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Laurel Knob Jan 15- Aug 14: All routes in the Dillard Canyon are closed to climbing during this period.
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This route is a pretty good route that follows weaknesses up the wall right of defective sonar that was put up in hopes of a free route but that may or may not be the case.
P1: climb the fathom corner to the ledge 40' up. Step up and left on steep face to a roof. pull the 5.9 roof and continue up the face past a black tricam and 3 bolts to anchor (5.11a)
P2: Climb up past 2 bolts then left then up then left to get gear then up and right to another bolt continue up to belay at two #3 camalots (5.11b)
P3: Traverse the horizontal out right till it gets steep and pumpy near the end. belay at a tiny stance. (5.11a to old anchor. 5.11c? to new one?)
P4: follow the line of 9 bolts and 4 bathooks out right past some dikes and large crystals mixed free and aid to big ledge (5.9 A1 or 5.13???????)
P5: Climb ramp up and right then step left onto the steep face following bolts past a short crimpy crux section then up an awesome shallow steep water groove (5.11a A0 or 5.12d?)
P6: Climb the incredible steep, deep, and wide to anchors. Look for large hybrid aliens before the first bolt and a key red tricam between the 2nd and 3rd bolts (5.10aR)
P7: Continue up the left hand groove past 2 bolts to ledge, then continue up the mossy groove to a 2 bolt anchor (5.9)
Descent: from top of P4 rap 200 ft. to slab of fathom. Then downclimb or double rope rap off single spinner 3/8" wedge bolt that won't tighten down :(
I've been working on this from January to June 2010. P1, P2, P6, P7 have been freed. P3 has been redpointed to the previous anchor location 8' left of the current one. P5 will go free at 12d-ish. I have done all the moves up to the last 2 bolts on P4 free but this last 15' section is pretty blank. P4 was originally aided with 4 bathook holes and one natural hook. I tried using more natural hooks but stopped when I kept breaking free climbing holds. for people who repeat the route on aid the only natural hook move is on large hold after the first bolt after the big dike on P4. P5 was done with some aid but no bathooks and mostly free (mandatory 5.11a free climbing)
P1 and P2 are a little heads up. P6 has seriously runout 5.8 or 5.9 climbing.
P1: climb the fathom corner to the ledge 40' up. Step up and left on steep face to a roof. pull the 5.9 roof and continue up the face past a black tricam and 3 bolts to anchor (5.11a)
P2: Climb up past 2 bolts then left then up then left to get gear then up and right to another bolt continue up to belay at two #3 camalots (5.11b)
P3: Traverse the horizontal out right till it gets steep and pumpy near the end. belay at a tiny stance. (5.11a to old anchor. 5.11c? to new one?)
P4: follow the line of 9 bolts and 4 bathooks out right past some dikes and large crystals mixed free and aid to big ledge (5.9 A1 or 5.13???????)
P5: Climb ramp up and right then step left onto the steep face following bolts past a short crimpy crux section then up an awesome shallow steep water groove (5.11a A0 or 5.12d?)
P6: Climb the incredible steep, deep, and wide to anchors. Look for large hybrid aliens before the first bolt and a key red tricam between the 2nd and 3rd bolts (5.10aR)
P7: Continue up the left hand groove past 2 bolts to ledge, then continue up the mossy groove to a 2 bolt anchor (5.9)
Descent: from top of P4 rap 200 ft. to slab of fathom. Then downclimb or double rope rap off single spinner 3/8" wedge bolt that won't tighten down :(
I've been working on this from January to June 2010. P1, P2, P6, P7 have been freed. P3 has been redpointed to the previous anchor location 8' left of the current one. P5 will go free at 12d-ish. I have done all the moves up to the last 2 bolts on P4 free but this last 15' section is pretty blank. P4 was originally aided with 4 bathook holes and one natural hook. I tried using more natural hooks but stopped when I kept breaking free climbing holds. for people who repeat the route on aid the only natural hook move is on large hold after the first bolt after the big dike on P4. P5 was done with some aid but no bathooks and mostly free (mandatory 5.11a free climbing)
P1 and P2 are a little heads up. P6 has seriously runout 5.8 or 5.9 climbing.
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