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Mirage Direct Finish

5.12b, Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Andrew M. and Shannon Stegg
N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Laurel Knob
Warning Access Issue: Falcon Closure 2024 DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a good direct finish to mirage with pumpy overhanging terrain with good holds for LK (including a few jugs on an overhanging wall!). Since it is climbable when the groove is running, it is a great year round route.

Warning: climbing at Laurel Knob is especially dangerous due to runouts, sometimes questionable anchors/protection, difficult route finding, rappel descents, and other factors. The information on this route posting is provided for informational purposes only to aid in community discussions and to aid in understanding where the route has been climbed before. Information provided may be inaccurate, incomplete, misleading, and/or highly subjective. Any person(s) attempting to climb this route or any others does so at their own risk and should not rely on any information in this posting. There is no implication by this posting that fixed anchors and removable protection locations, including those described, are safe or adequate to protect further ascents.

As described below, it starts from the top of pitch 3 of mirage. Though very good, Pitches one and 2 of mirage are usually wet so an alternative way to get to the start of this direct finish is to climb to the top of the second pitch of Oasis and then climb 5.8 slab to the 2 bolt anchor in the lower oasis. Pitch 3 of mirage goes through the headwall here to the upper oasis then the direct finish goes straight through the headwall above the upper oasis instead of going out right to lower angled terrain as the standard finish to mirage does. The direct finish is very much climbable when the groove is running water as was done on the FA and FFA and the rope does not get wet.

Pitch A: Climb overhanging orange corner with bomber gear to a jug on the overhanging wall. Clip a bolt then make bouldery thin face moves left to get established in deep water groove. Climb the usually wet groove past 3 more bolts to 2 bolt anchor. (5.12b, 90 feet). The crux is mandatory free climbing. It took me a lot of whippers to finally get these moves and make it over to the groove on the FA. The groove was bolted with bolts not all that far apart since it is wet most of the time including during the FA. 

Pitch B Climb face right of groove past some gear to ledgy area then continue up to a bolt in a bulge and make bouldery moves to get established over the bulge and into the much easier groove to the left. Continue to belay at one bolt and gear in a pod (#1 and #2 camalots)(I did not put in this bolt and have no idea what route it is part of) (5.12a, 120 feet)

From here you can traverse left to anchors of permission granite or fathom direct to rappel or you can continue straight up the easy groove above to the top (an alternate finish to fathom)

Both pitches were pinkpointed on the FFA

Location

Starts from the upper oasis which is reached by climbing pitch 3 of mirage after reaching the lower oasis by either climbing the first 2 pitches of mirage or oasis.

Protection

Well protected except very easy runout terrain on pitch B

before first bolt on Pitch A, a rack of nuts and cams to #2 camalot is needed for the short corner (hybrids useful) after the 2nd bolt on that pitch, there is a brown tricam placement.

On Pitch B, a light rack of cams to #2 camalot is needed. Hybrids are useful as always

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo topo drawn over picture posted by Nathan. Info is approximate and may be inaccurate. Do not use for route-finding!
[Hide Photo] Photo topo drawn over picture posted by Nathan. Info is approximate and may be inaccurate. Do not use for route-finding!