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DescriptionThe Cat Wall is loaded with lots of great climbs. Most of these are fairly difficult in the 5.10+ to 5.12+ range. There are fantastic splitters that cut through magnificent roofs as well as some thin, steep finger cracks. There seems to be great lines every ten to thirty yards along the wall. Even if there are a lot of people around, keep walking and you will find a fun worthwhile line that is unoccupied. Getting ThereFrom Newspaper Rock drive about 8 miles to the junction of County Road 104 and Utah 211 (this is about 5 miles north of Supercrack Buttress). Park on the east side of the road at the large dirt turn-out. Go through the ranch gate (be sure to close it behind you) and follow a trail that heads NE toward the wall. The walk is almost 2 miles. However, unless things have changed, a moderately well driven two-wheel-drive with a little clearance should be able to drive in through the gate considerably closer to the wall and park on a knoll right below the trail that goes up to the cliffs. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cat Wall:
Unnamed 19 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Tom Cat 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Meow Mix 5.10+ Trad
Catmandu 5.10+ Trad
Pinky Groovy 5.10+ Trad
Kool Cat 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Fat Cat 5.11- Trad
Pit Bull Terror 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Mad Dog 5.11 Trad
Curiosity 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Deseret Moon 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet
Johnny Cat 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Wild Cat 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
King Cat 5.11+ Trad
9 Lives 5.12a Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Puma 5.12- Trad, 1 pitch
Alley Cat 5.12- Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Bad Cat 5.12b Trad
Cat Burglar 5.12 Trad, 50 feet
Abbienormal 5.13 Trad
Featured Route For Cat Wall
Deseret Moon 5.11 UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall
Deseret Moon is a sweet, long splitter hand crack that is guarded by some interesting, difficult climbing off the ground. Approach by heading left along the wall for a good distance (300m?). Just past Tom Cat (a nice hand crack in a varnished corner) is this line.The direct start is difficult 5.11 stemming up a stem box to a roof of sorts, protected by tiny cams and, formerly, a bolt (now just a hole). The indirect start heads up loose but eas...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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