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Palisade Head
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Swimsuits and Harnesses 
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Urge to Mate 
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth 
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Unsorted Routes:

Poseidon Adventure 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Pagel and Rick Kollath
Page Views: 4,535
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Oct 11, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Therneau brothers on Poseidon Adventure. Joel at t...

Description 

Hats off to Dave Pagel and Rick Kollath for this one. Awesome, sustained, and technical. Finger locks and laybacks in and around a thin crack. The crux is roughly 30 feet above the belay ledge but it doesn't get much easier all the way to the top. The last 10 feet are little run out but can be protected with a bomber nut placement. Farris's guidebook mentions first pitch, which is a short crack leading from the water to the belay ledge. Unless you have a boat, I am not sure how to do it without getting soaked.


Location 

Very end of the Northern Ramparts. The corner with Poseidon Adventure is perhaps best visible from the clifftop at Mr. Lean/Mack the Knife (see beta photo) Walk along the cliff to the uphill section with no vegetation and lots of pebbles. Caution when locating the route looking down from the edge.


Protection 

Small to medium nuts and cams. Belay at the ledge down low takes medium cams. Top anchor requires long slings wrapped around several smaller trees.



Photos of Poseidon Adventure Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing at Palisade Head with Shovel Point in the background. Poseidon Adventure, Henning Boldt and Kate Muehling. Sept 08, '09.
Climbing at Palisade Head with Shovel Point in the...
Darin Limvere on the top run-out section. Isaac Therneau belaying. Photo by Zach Gostout. July, 2007.
Darin Limvere on the top run-out section. Isaac Th...
Henning and Kate in the midst of Poseidon Adventure.
Henning and Kate in the midst of Poseidon Adventur...
Two climbers TR-ing Poseidon Adventure. Joel Therneau (blue) belays from top. Greg Novak (red) is standing on the starting platform. View from the top of the detached North Tower. September 2005.
BETA PHOTO: Two climbers TR-ing Poseidon Adventure. Joel Thern...
SteveZ, 8/2008
SteveZ, 8/2008
Above 2nd crux. Posideon, Spring 05
Above 2nd crux. Posideon, Spring 05
Spot the climber! (Shouldda traded shirts with the belayer...) J.Lo on Poseidon
Spot the climber! (Shouldda traded shirts with the...
Tony Young showing the great exposure Poseidon offers.
Tony Young showing the great exposure Poseidon off...
Comments on Poseidon Adventure Add Comment
Show which comments
By Frost
Sep 9, 2007

If you're top-roping. I suggest doing it from the bottom (grab a drink of ice cold taconite water while you're down there). You add another 30 ft of 10+ finger climbing, and I would argue that it ups the grade to 12a.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 7, 2007

I did some of my first climbs at P head in the late 70's. A number of years later Dave Pagel gave me the tour of Palisade's new routes. We just TR climbed them but this one stands out as one of the best. It deserves the four stars and should not be missed.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 12, 2008

micro to small nuts for most of route. .75 and #2 BD; blue and purple TCU. long webbing for top anchor. anchor at the start of the climb takes small cams (.75 BD; red metolius; etc) and/or small nuts. for a anchor piece you can also use a couple 48" runners to clip the bolt on echoes that is up and to the left of the belay.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 3, 2009

Classic! One of the best pitches I've been on in a long time.