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Aug 17, 2008
Did this route yesterday AM. Not a good route for the 5.8 climber, as the rating is a little soft and the… View Comment
Jun 20, 2005
Now that I've done this a couple times, I think I was a bit mellow on the rating. There are definitely som… View Comment
Jun 13, 2005
The first couple of moves off the starting chicken-head are the crux (although well protected by the first… View Comment
Jun 10, 2005
Currently, the bolts are 1/4", on old SMC hangars. I really enjoyed the climb otherwise. Have your trad s… View Comment
May 29, 2005
This is actually a pretty fun route, but the chossy mess at the base of the arete is a major detractor. Th… View Comment
May 26, 2005
I would add to the comments about the start... it has greased up significantly since I first started climbi… View Comment
Aug 10, 2004
Lots of fun! Definitely agree with Nathan... do pitch one and two together, and then make the trip up pitc… View Comment
Aug 5, 2004
Just a bit of beta for the lead... as I approach the chains, I have found there is an adequate right ha… View Comment
Aug 2, 2004
I did some recon based on a number of questions that have come up about the bolt lines on Dogwood, and I've… View Comment
Jul 26, 2004
I used it, but don't know if it's "on" or not. It may actually be part of "Dirty Rotten Horror". The only… View Comment
Jul 26, 2004
This would bee the large, left-angled crack on the east side of the Egg fomration. The first few moves to… View Comment
Jul 26, 2004
I've climbed many times on the Egg in mid-winter during our 40-50 degree day warm-spells. It offers varied… View Comment
Jul 20, 2004
Killer route! The moves just prior to the lip are sweet. Just barely enough bolts, definitely LCC style.… View Comment
Jun 29, 2004
Yeah, the direct start to the Viewing is called the "Closed Casket Variation", and is somewhere in the low… View Comment
Jun 26, 2004
I did this today, and definitely feel it really does create a "complete" route for The Viewing. Fun face m… View Comment
Jun 24, 2004
Forgot to add... The Ruckman guide has this rated at 5.8. After doing this I thought my slab technique had… View Comment
Jun 9, 2004
Well John, there's proof that the mind goes with old age. I looked through my Rock and Ice archives and it… View Comment
Jun 7, 2004
If this is the line of bolts ascending directly up from the belay chains for the last pitch of Pentapitch,… View Comment
Jun 3, 2004
...almost forgot. Link this with MA#1 and you have a highly entertaining 3-pitch climb with seam, layback,… View Comment
Jun 2, 2004
Did this again on Memorial Day, and I forgot how cool this is! Bomber jams, slight overhang, and killer st… View Comment
May 19, 2004
The holds are all there, just move fast to avoid the pump... Good climb to cycle for a workout. View Comment
May 18, 2004
Just thought I'd add... You may want to tape up, as the roof crack eats skin. View Comment
May 14, 2004
Definitely a great route, diverse and with good, committing moves for the grade. I'd caution the inexperie… View Comment
May 12, 2004
I've toproped this several times and it's decent fun. I'd be interested to hear from someone who has actua… View Comment
May 11, 2004
One of my first routes (c1980) and I still enjoy it! If you remember a few months back it made the back-pa… View Comment
Jun 3, 2004
The direct start protects nicely with a #1 stopper or similar. It's only one move of .10a, with a flat lan… View Comment
Oct 11, 2004
Killer tower route in range for most competent trad leaders. Definitely think 5.11 is a bit over-the-top.… View Comment
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