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Routes in Coffin Buttress

C.P.O.D. T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Closed Casket Variation S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coffin Roof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Coffin, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exsqueeze Me S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Star Tuesday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rightside Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strewn Masters of Hore S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Viewing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Ruckman & Douglass '87
Page Views: 4,362 total, 27/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 13, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The Viewing is an excellent face climb on the right side of the Coffin Buttress. This climb is often toproped from the anchors to the right of the Coffin Crack, which avoids some big runouts between bolts. To do this, set a TR after climbing the Coffin.

Climb the fingery 5.9 opening to the Coffin (or traverse in from the left). Keep going up the Coffin until a traverse right is possible above a black chickenhead. This is above the first two bolts and piton on the right for the climb "Closed Casket". Then follow the thin edges up past 4 bolts to a set of chain anchors.

Descent) Rap with one rope (60m is preferable) back to the ground. A 50m rope might be a stretch.

Protection

Small cams and nuts for the start, same as the Coffin. Then 4 or 5 bolts to a set of chain anchors.

Photos

Jer
 
Jer  
 
RE Aerili: I did it on tr after leading the crack and decided I am a slabmaster who should have top roped the crack after leading the slab. I probably just suck at cracks but I found The Coffin to be much harder and scarier. Both worth doing either way. Sep 2, 2015
S.Cohen
 
S.Cohen  
 
Great line. I didn't think it was runout. Just super fun climbing on money rock! Oct 22, 2014
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
This was an excellent, long face climb but would be somewhat nerve-wracking to lead unless you are a solid slabmaster at grades >= 5.10 (per Texaswall's earlier comment-- and pretty typical for most 10- LCC friction, I suppose). I could tell as I climbed that this was put g/u; props to that and to the notes about it here. Mar 3, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Great route to practice controlling your mental state. Safe, but runout. Sep 18, 2012
Tried to send this one today. I blew off easy terrain just below the chains and took a 40 footer, luckily the bolts have been updated since the FA. The only damage is a bruised butt cheek and loss of desire to ever lead this again. The TR is fun though. Apr 7, 2011
Alec LaLonde
  5.10a R
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10a R
I thought this was a bit harder than the S-Direct and solid LCC .10a. Excellent rock and sustained right to the end. Oct 3, 2009
Thanks for the post Gordon. What a great story to add to the route description!!! Post more.
It would be great if Gordon's post could be added to the route description and not buried here in the comments.
Luked Feb 8, 2009
When Stuart and I put this route up we did grade it 9+ but it was subsequently upgraded to 10a. BTW no top rope rehearsal but looking out there from the Coffin Crack it looked like it would go. Drilled on the lead with a hand held percussion drill, 1/4 inch by 1 inch Rawl buttenhead bolts, about 45 minutes per bolt.

Take care - Gordon Feb 4, 2009
Casey Jenen
  5.10a
Casey Jenen  
  5.10a
This was a fun lead and it felt like a good 10a. Good holds and just super fun. Jul 23, 2008
Texaswall
The Woodlands, TX
Texaswall   The Woodlands, TX
TR'ed this route today after leading Coffin Crack. I agree it's a fine face climb, and in my humble opinion, it's all of 10a. Granted, that rating might be consistent with LCC standards, but LCC standards for friction (and face) seem to be stiff. What I find a little strange is that crack ratings seem to be more in line with other crags across the country.
My 70 year-old partner, a man that has climbed with some greats and in a lot of locales (including a lot in the Wasatch), agrees. At a minimum, as he stated after starting the climb, you should be a SOLID 5.10 leader to take on The Viewing. May 15, 2008
Nathan Fisher
  5.9+ R
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9+ R
Fun lead, well worth doing. I felt it wasn't a 5.10a, but a 5.9+, as the edges are so positive. Maybe in the old days when you were climbing with that runout above 1/4"-er's, it felt more like a 5.10a. Mar 1, 2006
Dave Budge
South Slope of the Hindu Kush
  5.10a
Dave Budge   South Slope of the Hindu Kush
  5.10a
Four stars. Great route. Direct start is in-your-face tough, probably 5.11ish. Sep 30, 2005
Yeah, the direct start to the Viewing is called the "Closed Casket Variation", and is somewhere in the low to mid .11's Jun 29, 2004
did a direct start on lower arete to route (on TR)....any idea of difficulty? Jun 29, 2004