Elevation: 4,764 ft
GPS: 38.724, -109.308 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 438,625 total · 1,982/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on May 12, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Fisher Towers is one of the most difficult places in the desert to climb, but also one of the most spectacular. The towers are huge soaring fins of mud up to 1000 feet high. Nearly all the routes on the major towers are at least Grade IVs, and there is more than one Grade VI here.

The Fishers have a lot of history. Shortly after making the first ascent of Castleton, Layton Kor came here to climb the largest tower, the Titan. The extremely difficult ascent of the Finger of Fate route was the subject of a National Geographic article, and is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. After Kor climbed the Titan, Harvey Carter dominated the scene by making first ascents of every other major tower and most of the smaller ones.

The Cutler sandstone is actually very hard, but doesn't fracture into continuous crack systems like most other sandstone. The rock is also covered with a thick layer of mud, which makes the climbing dirty, loose, difficult, and sometimes very dangerous. The caprock for the towers is Moenkopi.

Stolen Chimney on the corkscrew summit of Ancient Art is by far the most popular route here, and at 5.9 A1 the only real moderate route. The Colorado NE Ridge of the Kingfisher, Phantom Spirit on Echo Tower, and the Finger of Fate route on the Titan are all fairly popular and increasingly difficult. Some of the hardest routes in the desert are here, many put up solo by Jim Beyer. Stevie Haston has freed Echo Tower as a long scary 5.12 and nearly freed the Titan.

Getting There

From Moab, drive north on the River Road(SH 128) past Castle Valley to the Fisher Towers turnoff sign(about 27 miles). Drive to the parking lot at the end of the road.

All routes are accessed via the Titan Trail, which is quite good and well marked, though it can be hard to follow in the dark.

52 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fisher Towers

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-4
 7
Rasta Wall
Aid 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 111
Entry Fee
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
 98
Colorado Northeast Ridge
Aid
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+
 73
Finger of Fate
Trad, Aid 8 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
 6
Beaking In Tongues
Aid 7 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
 34
Phantom Sprint
Aid 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
 7
Sundevil Chimney
Aid
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 X
 3
World's End
Aid
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 66
Leapin' Lizards
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2+ R
 12
Fantasia
Trad, Aid 8 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
 1,183
Stolen Chimney
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 X
 3
Death Of American Democracy
Aid
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C0+ R
 3
The Hippie Route (North Summit)
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2 R
 5
Brer Rabbit
Trad, Aid 10 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
 58
The Cobra
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rasta Wall River Tower
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-4 Aid 5 pitches
Entry Fee Lizard Rock
 111
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Colorado Northeast Ridge Kingfisher
 98
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 Aid
Finger of Fate Titan
 73
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ Trad, Aid 8 pitches
Beaking In Tongues Oracle
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 Aid 7 pitches
Phantom Sprint Echo Tower
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 Aid 5 pitches
Sundevil Chimney Titan
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 Aid
World's End Titan
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 X Aid
Leapin' Lizards Lizard Rock
 66
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad
Fantasia Oracle
 12
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2+ R Trad, Aid 8 pitches
Stolen Chimney Ancient Art
 1,183
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
Death Of American Democracy Kingfisher
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 X Aid
The Hippie Route (North Sum… Ancient Art
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C0+ R Trad, Aid 4 pitches
Brer Rabbit Cottontail Tower
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2 R Trad, Aid 10 pitches
The Cobra Cobra
 58
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad
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