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Routes in The Titan

Finger of Fate 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Gimp Warfare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Lone Wolf (VI- A6) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Sundevil Chimney 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
World's End 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 X
jade gate T A4
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Type: Aid, Grade VI
FA: Jim Beyer (solo) 1987
Page Views: 8,509 total, 43/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Nov 15, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This fantastic nailing route is on the South Face of the Titan 50 or so feet to the right of the Sundevil Chimney.

P1- This pitch is steep and intimidating. It looks much harder than it is. Just a steep thin crack with lots of pretty good stopper placements. Climb to a hanging belay. (A2) P2- Climb up shallow corners and cracks. Traverse left to a right facing corner. When the corner switches to left facing, traverse left again via hooks and some thin pins to a good three bolt belay. (A3+)

P3- Nail a thin crack to a hook move left. Another thin seam leads to a drilled hook hole where you move left again into another thin crack. Climb that to reach a good bolt and then a 1/4" bolt. A shallow right facing dihedral leads to bolts which move left crossing an arete. Then more bolts and a short section of nailing take you to another three bolt anchor at a small stance. (A4)

P4- Some free climbing and bolts leads you to another thin crack at the top of the arete. Climb the crack via TCU's and small cams to an A2 crack. Climb the crack passing a few bolts to a hanging belay at a bolt and fixed pin. (A3)

P5- Climb an A2 thin crack passing some bolts and a small roof to more thin cracks and some bolt ladders to some broken, slopey groveling on a sandy ramp. There are three bolts here for a belay, but keep going. Climb 5.7 with one A0 move on a bolt to reach the good bivy ledge on the Sundevil chimney route.

P6,7- Climb the last two pitches of the Sundevil Chimney to the Summit.

Descent- Rappel either the Sundevil Chimney, or the standard Finger of Fate rappel route.

This, along with Death of American Democracy and Deadmans Party is one of the best routes in the Fishers. Pitch three has many aluminum head placements and is super dicey.

Protection

15 beaks, 15 blades, 15 lost arrows, 3 each angle to 2". many hooks, 20 aluminum heads, 10 keyhole hangers, 2 sets of stoppers (for 1st pitch) leeper cam hooks, 1 set of cams from tiny to #4 camalot.

Photos

Kikut  
Hard aid route repeated in August 2015 Dec 22, 2015
mark55401
Minneapolis
mark55401   Minneapolis
thanks, Jeremy, super-helpful. Dec 29, 2012
grk10vq    
awesome! nice tr. Apr 4, 2012
mark55401
Minneapolis
mark55401   Minneapolis
I don't know. Anyone know when the route was last climbed? Feb 27, 2012