Avg: 4 from 7 votes
|Type:||Aid, Grade VI|
|FA:||Harvey T. Carter, Tom Merrill, Bob Sullivan, Ken Wyrick - Ap|
|Page Views:||17,151 total · 75/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Folsom on Nov 13, 2001|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
P1- Climb the blocky crack systems up to the roof, and then climb thin cracks past some bolts to a good hanging belay. (A3)
P2- Climb the right leaning crack (all clean) to another good hanging belay. This pitch is mostly cams and stoppers. (A1+)
P3- Move right and climb super muddy 5.8 and A2 pins hammered straight into the mud to an old bolt ladder. When we climbed this, most of the bolts were hidden under the mud. I had to excavate with my hammer to find them. Then some tricky nailing leads to another hanging belay. (5.8 A2+)
P4- Climb A2 past some bolts heading right into the deepest part of the muddy chimney. Climb 5.9 mud up the chimney past a few bolts. This is one of the most interesting pitches in the desert. Climb light on the mud! A wide crack just before the sloping belay takes a #4 camalot. So save one for there. (5.9 A2)
P5- Climb up a nice right facing dihedral, and then climb right on bolts underneath the roof. Then climb A2 with a few mantles onto sloping ledges to a wiggle move through a weird, short groove to a killer ledge. This would be a great ledge to bivy on. (5.7 A2)
P6- Cross the chasm and climb an A2 crack then tension traverse left to more aid and free climbing to another ledge 60 feet below the summit. Watch rope drag on this pitch. It is bad! (5.9 A2)
P7- Climb the right facing chimney/offwidth to the summit. (5.7r)
To descend, either rap the finger of fate route to the top of pitch 5, then three more rappels down the gully right of the route. We actually rapped down the Sundevil Chimney, and were down in about 30 minutes. I would recommend rapping the Sundevil Chimney.
THERE SHOULD BE NO NAILING ON THIS ROUTE!! When I submitted this route it had not gone clean yet, or free.