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Routes in The Titan

Finger of Fate 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Gimp Warfare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Lone Wolf (VI- A6) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Sundevil Chimney 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
World's End 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 X
jade gate T A4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 7 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Jim Beyer -solo
Page Views: 1,244 total, 56/month
Shared By: Jim Beyer on Jan 26, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route is located 50' right of Gimp Warfare.It climbs a faint buttress that becomes a fin.Pitch1 180' A6 climb good seam 70' then 100' runout(160' ground fall) to good belay in tiny right facing corner.Pitch2 140' A6 or A5 It seemed A5 on lead but A6 when I removed gear(possible 280' ground fall)2 bolt belay Pitch3 150' A5 up fin to 2 bolt belay. 2-50' runouts Pitch4 100' A5 up fin,roof to good crack.Pitch5 90' A3 up expando flake tension right,up crack to "bivy ledge"on Finger of Fate route.Pitch6&7 easy 5.8 A2 to top on F of Fate route

Location

The line is easy to follow and there is no "trickery". There are no empty holes except some 1/4" divits on slopers or behind pebbles for hooks

Protection

The first 4 pitches are features and hooks connected by 1/4" Zamack rivits.No bolts except 2-2bolt belays.There is little or no pro on Pitches 1-4

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Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
I vote Richard for the 2nd ascent. Dec 28, 2016
Awesome idea: "beaks strapped to your body." The rating could contemplate the number or percentage of beaks that would "possibly" penetrate the hurtling torso, perhaps even adding to the shrapnel value upon impact.

Yes, anything to add to the "possible" horror! It's all gotta count.

At this rate, we might have to invent new numbers. In fact, almost certainly, since the set of positive, whole numbers can't contain the ego-pump. Dec 5, 2016
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
I like the addition of the dismemberment score. It adds emphasis for sure.

What about if you have beaks strapped to your body, and get impaled. Does that count for anything? Dec 4, 2016
A6 is nothing but an ego-spraying rating. There is no such thing.

For hard aid, particularly in soft rock like the Fisher Towers, which is extremely subjective, Bridwell's non-nonsense rating system is much more sensible and sustainable: No Big Deal, Pretty Darn Hard, Real Heads-up, and Don't Fvk Up.

Anything beyond that level of detail cannot sustain scrutiny.

Beyer and Pelut are the two guys who have claimed to themselves the A6 and (even more ridiculous) A6+ rating, Beyer repeatedly. Wowwzzzaaa.

Listen, A6 is a weak rating when there's the "real" possibility of A7, which is defined as: Possible fall from 300 feet up, with possible ground-penetration of the human projectile to at least 10 feet.

Note the perpetual emphasis on "possible."

But wait! There's more!

A7+, which is defined as: Possible fall from 350 feet up, with minimum ground penetration of the human projectile to at least 15 feet, with ejecta from the impact crater likely to seriously wound or kill bystanders within a 50-foot radius.

A8r, which is defined as: Possible fall from 350 feet up, with possible high-rpm cartwheels down less-than-vertical rock that strip the limbs off of the human projectile leaving only an aerodynamic torso, such that it rifles into the ground a minimum of 32.745 feet, and with ejecta from the impact crater possibly fatal to bystanders to a radius of at least 200 feet.

A9xxx, which is defined as: Free-solo of A7 or harder, with possible fall from the very top of the route, with minimum ground penetration of the human projectile of at least 75 feet, such that any bystanders within a half-mile radius of the resulting crater will be immolated by the super-heated blast wave (that would possibly be intense enough to even topple the Titan itself).

Note that standing on top of the Titan is A9xxx! Wowwwzzzaaaa!

Aid ratings in general are so thoroughly subjective and based upon theoretical "possibilities" that they are a joke, and the joke's really on anybody who believes in even A6. Dec 2, 2016
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Good lad Jim Mar 9, 2016
Holy shit balls!

Hockey pads and all? Jan 26, 2016
Jim Beyer  
 
I have done 2 other routes that I have rated A6.Check them out @ mountain project Utah-Moab-Island in the sky -Hardscrabble Tower-Cult of Suicidal(A6) and Utah-Moab-Fisher Towers-Cottontail-Intifada(A4+/A5-)-comments Jan 26, 2016
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Way Cool! You have any photos of these rad routes???? More description? Location on the formation? Photos of mank? Jan 26, 2016