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Routes in The Titan

Finger of Fate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+
Gimp Warfare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Lone Wolf (VI- A6) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Sundevil Chimney 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
World's End 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 X
jade gate T A4
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Elevation: 5,457 ft
GPS: 38.717, -109.3 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 46,899 total · 237/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jun 20, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Titan is the largest of the Fisher Towers, and the largest free standing tower in the United States. The Titan was also the first tower in the Fishers to be cimbed. Layton Kor's ascent of the Finger of Fate was the subject of an article in National Geographic, and the climb is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. Harvey Carter, not to be outdone, added the incredible plumb line Sundevil Chimney, and later harder routes were added by Jim Beyer, Walt Shipley, and Duane Raleigh among others. Stevie Haston made an impressive attempt to free the Finger of Fate, but still had to resort to a few moves of aid - so the Titan is still awaiting a FFA.

Update - Stevie Haston has apparently freed the Sundevil Chimney at 5.13 This is pretty mind blowing - if the Titan can be freed probably any tower can.

Getting There

Walk along the trail until at the base of the Titan. Sundevil Chimney is the first route reached. To reach the Finger of Fate, keep traversing around the base until it is possible to scramble up on ledges.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Titan

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+
 58
Finger of Fate
Trad, Aid
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
 7
Sundevil Chimney
Aid
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 X
 3
World's End
Aid
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Finger of Fate
 58
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ Trad, Aid
Sundevil Chimney
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 Aid
World's End
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 X Aid
More Classic Climbs in The Titan »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
The Titan is featured in the latest Alpinist Magazine (#8). Blurbs by first ascent parties, lots of cool route photos. Almost makes me want to climb the thing again. Sep 21, 2004
To whoever left the coors light on the summit: I drank it. Thank you, kind sir. Oct 18, 2010
Time to update the intro!

Stevie did the FFA of Sundevil, 5.13 X, in 2002. Ben Bransby and Pete Robins freed Finger of Fate, March 2005. Finger of Fate free, 5.12, has also been repeated by Jason Haas (April 2011) and Will Stanhope (April 2013). Apr 21, 2013
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Want to rewrite the Titan page Crusher? You'd d it much better justice than i did. Apr 22, 2013
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
To the person who left two chunks of wet carpet at the base of the titan out in the pines. Pick up your crap. If you drop gear from something, take the time to try and recover it. I hiked your shitty carpet/belay seat out and threw it out. May 14, 2014
CaseyElliott
Salt Lake City
CaseyElliott   Salt Lake City
Cass Bindrup and I freed Finger of Fate yesterday. What a climb! There should be a Mtn proj climb for the free version May 20, 2018
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
That "Add to this page" link in the upper right? It's there for a reason :-) May 20, 2018

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