Type: Trad, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Pete Robins and Ben Bransbury
Page Views: 449 total · 61/month
Shared By: CaseyElliott on Nov 14, 2018
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A few people have asked me to add this separately from the Aid climb of the finger.


P1: straightforward 5.11
P2: tricky off the start, sustained. Place pro after you use the pin scars otherwise it will be much harder 5.12  or E6. 
P3: tricky off the belay as well,sustained 5.12 or E6 
(P2, P3 and P8 are the most sustained climbing)

P4: The roof- a good fingerlock between the fixed tricams leads to a hard mantle. Easy climbing follows with poor pro. 5.12 E5 

P5: Flaring chimney that you can protect with a #4 5.10 

P6: Traverse around the duck 5.3 

P7: Pinscar boulder problem in the mud seam leads to easy climbing, then a tricky mantle. Good pro the entire pitch 12d (the BP felt V6-7 to us)

P8: Strange blobs lead to a few hard moves on slopers and bad feet. Continue left in the crack to good rock. 5.12+ Good updated bolts and exposure make this pitch one of the best 

P9: Scramble to the summit 5.4 


After working sundevil chimney I realized the rock on finger of fate is actually pretty dang solid with a light dusking of choss or sand on top. 

Location

Same as for the aid climb. 

Protection

Offsets, cams to 4. Yellow C3 was nice to have. Totems probably fit better than any other cams

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