Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 9 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Pete Robins and Ben Bransbury|
|Page Views:||1,332 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||CaseyElliott on Nov 14, 2018|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
P1: straightforward 5.11
P2: tricky off the start, sustained. Place pro after you use the pin scars otherwise it will be much harder 5.12 or E6.
P3: tricky off the belay as well,sustained 5.12 or E6 (P2, P3 and P8 are the most sustained climbing)
P4: The roof- a good fingerlock between the fixed tricams leads to a hard mantle. Easy climbing follows with poor pro. 5.12 E5
P5: Flaring chimney that you can protect with a #4 5.10
P6: Traverse around the duck 5.3
P7: Pinscar boulder problem in the mud seam leads to easy climbing, then a tricky mantle. Good pro the entire pitch 12d (the BP felt V6-7 to us)
P8: Strange blobs lead to a few hard moves on slopers and bad feet. Continue left in the crack to good rock. 5.12+ Good updated bolts and exposure make this pitch one of the best
P9: Scramble to the summit 5.4
After working sundevil chimney I realized the rock on finger of fate is actually pretty dang solid with a light dusking of choss or sand on top.