Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV|
|Page Views:||1,643 total · 68/month|
|Shared By:||CaseyElliott on Nov 30, 2018|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
In a way, the first pitch of Sun Devil is one of the best pitches the desert has to offer. Roof climbing, sporty face moves between mono & two finger pinscars and little cobbles cemented in the mud, and gear that is just good enough to hold but far enough apart to make things interesting. The only part that is less desirable is the consistent layer of dirt on every hold but it really does add another level of challenge to the experience. I doubt there is climbing like this anywhere else in the world.
To add to that, the second pitch is a rad straight-in-splitter (both p1&2 are slightly overhanging) with thin hands and fingers moves between good hand jam rests. The exposure is incredible, partly due to the fact that the entire wall moans and you really don't want to trust the anchors, and partly because both p1 & 2 are both over 150 ft long - so you basically climb the height of the Rectory or Castleton in two pitches.
Once you are in the chimneys you get to navigate a crazy world of slopers, tufa-like-mud curtains, and wide, airy stemming. Its the kind of free climbing that is unforgettable.
Once you are out of the chimneys you get to do some sweet offwidth climbing with a wild view of the desert.
The physical crux is the first pitch. The mental crux is either the end of 3 or the cumulative experience of 4. 5,6,7 are tough but you will definitely take it to the top if you finish 4.