Type: Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Herbie Hendricks and Dennis Willis June 6-11th 1967
Page Views: 930 total · 86/month
Shared By: Tommy Hendricks on Feb 28, 2018
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Same approach as to get to Stolen Chimney.

Pitch 1 is shared with first 4 pitons of Stolen Chimney, walk right 200 feet onto a sandy slope, belay from here. No fixed anchor. From the sandy slope climb up to the arch (5.8). Clip and continue left to a large ledge. Walk 50 or so feet the the base of the obvious chimney.

Pitch 2 Climb the (5.10+) chimney to a spacious ledge with two big boulders on it.

Pitch 3 Climb down into the cleft behind the ledge and climb a crazy off width/ squeeze chimney (5.8) for 40 feet to another roomy ledge. Walk right on the ledge to the bolder pile and mantle up to the prominent ridge to the summit. Walk left on the ledge to a rappel anchor.

Pitch 4 Be carful,there is no fixed gear on this pitch. Walk back to the right and mantle on the the summit. There are no fixed anchors on the summit you must go back to the anchor at the top of pitch 3. Route can be broken up into more pitches for rope drag dilemmas.

Decent: Walk back to the ledge of pitch 3 and rappel twice back to bench and walk to a tree and rap of it or down climb the start of Stolen Chimney.

Protection

2 sets of cams with 2 #5s and a few blade pitons or lost arrows or don't hurt for the top of pitch 4 but be sure to pull them. Runners, slings, and nuts/hexes are nice too. 70 meter rope
I'd love to see some photos of this route! I was trying to scope where it was exactly last week. Mar 21, 2018
Paul S
Fruita, CO
Paul S   Fruita, CO
From the top of the 1st pitch, there's a crack system that can also be climbed. It leads to the right side of the big boulders in Tommy's topo. It's a little dirty, but not too bad. Instead of using iron for the last move, you can sling a horn. It's a boulder move that will feel a little spicy. Also, when I did it a few years ago there was a slack line anchor on top that can be used to get down. Apr 5, 2018
David A
Boulder, CO
  5.9 C1 R
David A   Boulder, CO
  5.9 C1 R
This is a perfect route for any insatiable Fishers climber wishing to grovel, thrutch, and eat mud.

Beta alert! Don't read further for maximum adventure!

The first mantle move off the big sandy ledge at the base of the route is heads up and unprotected. Be sure your belayer is at a bomber stance. A long cordalette can be used to sling the arch which will protect the sandy moves to the crack, which is dirty, but short and easy.

The ledge above is spacious, follow it all the way to the left, to where the ledge ends, and you'll see the crux just above you. Two old but seemingly solid pins protect the crux, which can be backed up with bomber cams. After that it's pretty fun 5.7 chimney/squeezing to the huge belay ledge with the huge boulder.

The third pitch is a grovel-fest starting with a strenuous wide crack that's very clean, followed by more wideness in not-so-clean cobbles and mud. On the big ledge above you have 2 options: step out to the right to the top of the boulder and make a couple insecure, unprotected 5.7 face moves to the ledge above (real bad fall potential), or continue up the super squeeze to the same ledge, which is probably full on 5.9. My partner had to remove all his gear and helmet in order to barely fit through.

The summit mantle is 5.9 and also has bad fall potential. A shoulder stand can be utilized to get through this.

Double rope rap from the summit to the big ledge next to the boulder atop the second pitch, and then 1 long double rope rap from there will bring you all the way to the ground/trail.

Rack: doubles in BD camalot from .3 to 5, plus a number 6 is nice to have but if you're comfortable on wide stuff you can probably get away without it. Also bring some extra webbing/cord for replacing anchor slings.

Full value adventure route! Plus the view of the Corkscrew from up there is unreal. Oct 29, 2018