Type: Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Herbie Hendricks and Dennis Willis June 6-11th 1967
Page Views: 6,993 total · 91/month
Shared By: Tommy Hendricks on Feb 28, 2018
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Fun History Fact! This was the original FA on Ancient Art!

Use the same approach as to get to Stolen Chimney.

Pitch 1 is shared with first 4 pitons of Stolen Chimney, walk right 200 feet onto a sandy slope, belay from here. No fixed anchor. From the sandy slope climb up to the arch (5.8). Clip and continue left to a large ledge. Walk 50 or so feet the the base of the obvious chimney.

Pitch 2 Climb the (5.10+) chimney to a spacious ledge with two big boulders on it.

Pitch 3 Climb down into the cleft behind the ledge and climb a crazy off width/ squeeze chimney (5.8) for 40 feet to another roomy ledge. Walk right on the ledge to the bolder pile and mantle up to the prominent ridge to the summit. Walk left on the ledge to a rappel anchor.

Pitch 4 Be careful,there is no fixed gear on this pitch. Walk back to the right and mantle on the the summit. There are no fixed anchors on the summit you must go back to the anchor at the top of pitch 3. Route can be broken up into more pitches for rope drag dilemmas.

Descent: Walk back to the ledge of pitch 3 and rappel twice back to bench and walk to a tree and rap of it or down climb the start of Stolen Chimney.

Protection Suggest change

2 sets of cams with 2 #5s and a few blade pitons or lost arrows or don't hurt for the top of pitch 4 but be sure to pull them. Runners, slings, and nuts/hexes are nice too. 70 meter rope