Type: Aid, Grade V
FA: Jim Beyer
Page Views: 12,241 total · 54/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 23, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is an excellent nailing line which climbs the center of the south face of King Fisher for 5 pitches. Pitch one has some thin nailing and heading right off the ground passing a couple of bolts, and then nails a good leftward arching corner. Pitch two climbs left then up into a nice right facing corner. After the corner climb up a scary mud curtain to a bad bolt and then into a tricky wide crack to the belay. The third pitch climbs 5.10 and some nailing up to a pendulum point. Pendulum right to a ledge and then nail a thin crack to the belay. There is ledge fall potential on this pitch. Pitch four climbs difficult thin cracks with thin pins and heads up to a roof which is steep and awkward. Climb the caprock for about 30 feet to a ledge. The last pitch is 5.9 wide crack climbing to the top. This route is a great, hard nailing route on one of the best lines in the Fishers. To descend, rappel the Colorado Northeast ridge route. Jim Beyer did the first ascent, solo in the late '80s.

Protection

Heavy nailing rack including aluminum heads. Pins from beaks to 4" bongs. 2 sets of cams from tiny to #3 camalot. 1 #4 camalot. Micro Stoppers and stoppers. Bring some hooks also.

Photos