All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > Fisher Towers > Kingfisher

Death Of American Democracy

Name: Death Of American Democracy
Rating: 3.8

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British A4 X

Routes in Kingfisher

	Colorado Northeast Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
	Death Of American Democracy 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 X
	Jagged Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4- PG13
	Return of Mudzilla, The T A3
	Thermic Fever T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2+
	Weird Science T A4 R
	Whipping Pussy Riot T A3+

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Type:	Aid, Grade V
GPS:	38.72273, -109.30259
FA:	Jim Beyer
Page Views:	15,510 total · 52/month
Shared By:	Ben Folsom on Oct 23, 2001
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

This route is an excellent nailing line which climbs the center of the south face of King Fisher for 5 pitches. Pitch one has some thin nailing and heading right off the ground passing a couple of bolts, and then nails a good leftward arching corner. Pitch two climbs left then up into a nice right facing corner. After the corner climb up a scary mud curtain to a bad bolt and then into a tricky wide crack to the belay. The third pitch climbs 5.10 and some nailing up to a pendulum point. Pendulum right to a ledge and then nail a thin crack to the belay. There is ledge fall potential on this pitch. Pitch four climbs difficult thin cracks with thin pins and heads up to a roof which is steep and awkward. Climb the caprock for about 30 feet to a ledge. The last pitch is 5.9 wide crack climbing to the top. This route is a great, hard nailing route on one of the best lines in the Fishers. To descend, rappel the Colorado Northeast ridge route. Jim Beyer did the first ascent, solo in the late '80s.

Protection

Heavy nailing rack including aluminum heads. Pins from beaks to 4" bongs. 2 sets of cams from tiny to #3 camalot. 1 #4 camalot. Micro Stoppers and stoppers. Bring some hooks also.