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Death Of American Democracy
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British A4 X
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Kingfisher
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Colorado Northeast Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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Death Of American Democracy 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 X |
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Return of Mudzilla, The T A3 |
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Weird Science T A4 R |
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Whipping Pussy Riot T A3+ |
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| Type: | Aid, Grade V |
| FA: | Jim Beyer |
| Page Views: | 12,241 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Folsom on Oct 23, 2001 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
This route is an excellent nailing line which climbs the center of the south face of King Fisher for 5 pitches. Pitch one has some thin nailing and heading right off the ground passing a couple of bolts, and then nails a good leftward arching corner. Pitch two climbs left then up into a nice right facing corner. After the corner climb up a scary mud curtain to a bad bolt and then into a tricky wide crack to the belay. The third pitch climbs 5.10 and some nailing up to a pendulum point. Pendulum right to a ledge and then nail a thin crack to the belay. There is ledge fall potential on this pitch. Pitch four climbs difficult thin cracks with thin pins and heads up to a roof which is steep and awkward. Climb the caprock for about 30 feet to a ledge. The last pitch is 5.9 wide crack climbing to the top. This route is a great, hard nailing route on one of the best lines in the Fishers. To descend, rappel the Colorado Northeast ridge route. Jim Beyer did the first ascent, solo in the late '80s.
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