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Routes in The Oracle

Beak to the Future T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+
Beaking In Tongues 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4
Fantasia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2+ R
Type: Aid, 700 ft, 7 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett, Dave Levine April 1997
Page Views: 6,581 total, 54/month
Shared By: Joe Forrester on Jan 14, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch one - 20 feet of mud manteling leads to a #1 pecker placement. Beaks are interspersed with some good cam placements (A3).(140')
Pitch two - More mud groveling up and left. You pretty much are following the splitter(A2).(100')
Pitch three - Again, more splitter mud leads up and left. I had to back clean a fair bit of this pitch(A2+).(140')
Pitch four - Mud and crack left for the last time(A3)(60').
Pitch five - Traverse right on improbable #1 beaks and tipped out #4 and #5 camalots until you get to a beak seam leading up to anchors that are hidden by a bulge.(A3+)
Pitch six - More #1 beaking to the saddle (A4)
Pitch seven - Two 15' pendulums right lead to the large muddy crack that leads to the summit. The rope drag is absolutely horrible.(5.8 A3) 180'

Descent: Rappel the route. We added an extra bolt at the third rappel station.

Location

Hike the Fishers Trail around past Cottontail. After the metal stairs, hike up the yellow ridge that drops down between the south side of echo and the oracle. Hike up pretty high before cutting out right to the base of the climb.

Protection

Beaks, beaks and more beaks. If you don't bring beaks on this route, you are foolish. For most of the pitches the largest cam you need is a number 3 camalot. However, there are two pitches where we found a #4 and #5 camalot to be pretty essential. Other than that, just bring the standard fishers aid jingus.
akanatokiek
Boulder, CO
 
akanatokiek   Boulder, CO
 
There is a fixed line going from the ground to the P5 anchors, not sure how long it has been there for. Oct 28, 2017
Looks like the Supertopo trip report's gone.
Trip report from the first ascent:
deserttowersbook.com/node/20 Feb 10, 2016
"Matt and I climbed this last week in two days"

Two days? In my memory, the FA took, like, most of one spring's worth of weekends.

Cannot imagine doing the first four pitches in just one day.

My mind is severely overboggled. Excellent work, Ben! Mar 26, 2014
Ben Kiessel  
 
Matt and I climbed this last week in two days. Fixed the first 4 then did the last 3 on day two. This route is definitely climbable in a long day.
My gear suggestions...

-bring swim goggles
-single set micro cams
-triple set from green alien to #2 camalot
-4-5 #3 camalots, 2-3 #4, 2 #5, 1 #6
-a set of stoppers
-hybrid aliens
-2 specters
-5 sets of peckers
-blades, LA, angles, z-pins
-2 lead lines for the last pitch

Great climbing, amazing line!

DO IT!!! Mar 23, 2014
Ben Kiessel  
 
Thanks for posting! Your trip report on supertopo was very entertaining.
supertopo.com/climbing/thre…
Nice Job. Jan 15, 2008