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Routes in Lizard Rock

Entry Fee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Leapin' Lizards T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Harvey T Carter & Annie S Carter, 1962
Page Views: 4,359 total, 22/month
Shared By: Dan Russell on Nov 4, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Begin on the southwest side (the parking lot side) and follow a 5.7 crack/face up about 25 feet to a flake. Place a #4 cam here if needed. Move up and a little right to gain the right end of the large, obvious flake splitting the tower just beneath the summit overhang. Use a long runner to sling a horn here, then proceed straight up on overhanging jugs to a 2 bolt/1 drilled pin anchor. Mantle (yeah...).

The rock quality is good, and can be trusted for the most part.

Protection

Bring a #4 cam and a long runner to protect the crux moves.
Ryan202
West Jordan, UT
 
Ryan202   West Jordan, UT
 
I don't think this is an R rating. I slung two horns and avoided any runout. The jugs are solid. Feb 28, 2016
joslstap
  5.8 PG13
joslstap  
  5.8 PG13
Was able to sling a knob above the horn to protect the "runnout" section. Jul 12, 2014
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
i just love all the photo topos that are getting posted. not much more can be said about this one. if you have not done it; you should; it's fun Nov 17, 2012
Aaron Ihinger
Ridgway,CO
Aaron Ihinger   Ridgway,CO
I thought it went well straight up the middle. There is a second horn to sling that protects the last moves to the anchor. I thought that the second horn replaced the call for an "R" in the rating. Apr 25, 2011
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  5.8 R
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
  5.8 R
This route is surely R rated. Even if all the gear holds you'd be mighty close to the ground (at best) if you fell in many spots. Going straight up is much better than the wrap around in the guide book because the mantle is a lot easier and on cleaner rock that way. A big cam like a #6 C4 might be the best pro on the final flake but you have a few options. The bolts seem fairly solid but they are small and old and I didn't dare fall on them. Apr 2, 2011
JoergB
Germany
5.8
JoergB   Germany
5.8
Nice climb with resonable pro and rock quality. I don't understand the "R" rating. Oct 13, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
Did the right side mantle variation at the top. Didn't have any gear to protect the mantle, so I was pretty gripped. A worthwhile climb but take more than just the #4 Camalot that is mentioned here. I took that and a #5 Friend. The #5 friend was good for the bottom crack. You could probably get a #1 (red) Camalot in above that, and above that there are some shallow horizontal slots where you could probably get in a C3 (maybe a red or yellow? or maybe the one smaller than those...) or TCU. I don't know if it'd hold but it would be nice psychological pro.

There are three bomber bolts with chains on top. Jan 3, 2009
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
I did this climb with Lori Graf in the early 1980's... I got scared. I believe this climb even today is still frightening people, isn't it? The bolts were sheit too. May 2, 2007
Rich Kelly
Boulder
 
Rich Kelly   Boulder
 
Instead of going straight up at the top of the tower, we followed Cameron Burns description and traversed right after standing on the big flake. It is a bit runout but easy. Once on the ledge, getting to the summit proved to be the crux (5.8) as there are no positive holds on top. Luckily there is a nice slot for a .5 Camalot that protects this move. My photo shows what I described. Nov 28, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Probably most people's first introduction to climbing in the Fishers. Nothing to write home about, but will provide the first-timer with a general sense of what to expect on the bigger routes. Plus, it's an easy "tower" to tick. Aug 11, 2006
Jon Cannon  
 
Too short, and the texture of the rock is like a cheese grater. The exposure over on the right side was fun, though. An OK route, but not terribly indicative of what I think of when I think of Fisher Towers climbing. Jan 24, 2006
My partner was able to place a long sling and a #2 camalot (backing each other up) near the top of the right facing flake where the lower crack/flake climbing ends just prior to the face moves. You can also put a #4 camalot behind the upper flake before making your summit moves (a 4.5 might work too). Feel around for good holds on top. The bolts/pin on top look a little manky - tied-off bolts don't inspire confidence. Apr 2, 2002
And yet another variation. Stand atop the right side of the flake, bearhug/grope a slopey bulge to the right and traverse right into a bowl. Follow a ledge halfway around the spire to the right (NE side, away from the parking), pull up enough slack to mantle and gain the top (about 5.6/7 move to gain summit). Don't even think of falling off the backside mantle though as you will spiral all around the tower on your way back to that slung flake. Nov 19, 2001
Ben Folsom  
 
There is another variation to this route which is fun. Instead of going straight up from the big flake near the top, traverse the flake left until it runs out. Stand up and there is an old(not very trustworthy), hidden bolt. Then climb straight up from the bolt on steep jugs to the top. Still about 5.8. Nov 13, 2001