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Routes in River Tower
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Flow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Knifing Zionist Racists T A5 |
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North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-Merrill) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C1 R |
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Rasta Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-4 |
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Tunnel Like Hamas T A5 |
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| Type: | Aid, 440 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Jim Beyer in the 80's |
| Page Views: | 4,170 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Forrester on Mar 25, 2011 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
P1- Obvious splitter beak crack to tension traverse to another beak crack. There is a loose flake with some big swing potential. Go up through two roofs, then up C1/2 crack to two bolt anchor in alcove. One new bolt added to anchor to replace old POS bolt. Need small gear to supplement anchor, we used a beak and a small angle. 140'
P2- Head out the TCU roof into mud crack above. Pitch will likely go all free at some point, potentially hard 5.11. Definitely will go all clean on next ascent. End at hanging belay, one new 3/8 by 3.5" bolt added to belay to augment dilapidated anchors/leeper hangers. 60'
P3- Stellar beak/ small gear seam up the vertical to slightly overhanging face. One rivet on pitch, a new rivet was placed adjacent to it. This was the only rivet mentioned in the original topo so the only one replaced. One 3/8 by 3.5" and one 3/8 by 1.5 bolt added to belay to replace old bolts.
P4- Beak seam to great C1 wideness with wild roof moves, one 3/8 by 1.5" bolt added to anchor. There were rivets on this pitch not mentioned in the original topo, so none were replaced and are old and moderately suspect.
P5- Easy free climbing leads to summit.
Descent - Rap the route
P2- Head out the TCU roof into mud crack above. Pitch will likely go all free at some point, potentially hard 5.11. Definitely will go all clean on next ascent. End at hanging belay, one new 3/8 by 3.5" bolt added to belay to augment dilapidated anchors/leeper hangers. 60'
P3- Stellar beak/ small gear seam up the vertical to slightly overhanging face. One rivet on pitch, a new rivet was placed adjacent to it. This was the only rivet mentioned in the original topo so the only one replaced. One 3/8 by 3.5" and one 3/8 by 1.5 bolt added to belay to replace old bolts.
P4- Beak seam to great C1 wideness with wild roof moves, one 3/8 by 1.5" bolt added to anchor. There were rivets on this pitch not mentioned in the original topo, so none were replaced and are old and moderately suspect.
P5- Easy free climbing leads to summit.
Descent - Rap the route
Location
The route is on the SW aspect of River Tower. Find the start by hiking up to the obvious prow and peeking around the corner to the south. If you need more help than that, hit yourself in the head with your hammer and hope you don't survive.
Protection
Beaks helpful in lieu of knifeblades. Standard fishers aid rack with a couple leeper-z and a few bigger angles. Can leave all the big iron at home. Big cams make life more fun. Off set aliens helpful. As mentioned in the description, each anchor has at least one new bolt to augment the old stuff.
Palo Alto
Palo Alto
Palo Alto
Fort Collins, Wyoming
Can't wait to get back on that thing and have the topo hanging above my desk. What a striking line! Nice Work Joe! Mar 27, 2011
Whoops!
I try to bounce test most everything, but gently. When I get up on the piece--no sneezing!
With the slots, I've had more luck by first hammering a bugaboo or knifeblade deep in, then methodically stacking things around it, then tying off the whole shebang. The leverage on the placement is as good as it can be. Deepening a slot is safer, and makes the slot more usable down the road for everyone else. If the slot is totally blind and the bugaboo does not bite, either finagle a small Alien (if it's large enough), or hammer a nut (stopperhead-style) into it. Sawed-off angles seem to be fickle creatures in the Fishers--never use 'em (I climbed the classics so long ago they didn't have all the slots).
I climbed this with Ralph E. Burns. Don't know if Cam Burns ever climbed this (Cam?). Cam Burns and Mike Baker climbed The Flow, on the front face, just a couple weeks before Dave Levine and I arrived, hiked our gear in, all psyched to climb a new route, and saw all the bolts.....boo hoo Apr 2, 2011
Palo Alto
I don't think it has seen too many ascents. Did y'all have the 3/8th in bolts when you were on the thing? There seemed to be several that weren't in the Desert Rock III descripton.
Your book is a hit too, thanks again.
Joe Apr 2, 2011
Fort Collins, Wyoming
Colorado Springs