Type: Aid, 440 ft (133 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jim Beyer in the 80's
Page Views: 5,068 total · 43/month
Shared By: Joe Forrester on Mar 25, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

P1- Obvious splitter beak crack to tension traverse to another beak crack. There is a loose flake with some big swing potential. Go up through two roofs, then up C1/2 crack to two bolt anchor in alcove. One new bolt added to anchor to replace old POS bolt. Need small gear to supplement anchor, we used a beak and a small angle. 140'

P2- Head out the TCU roof into mud crack above. Pitch will likely go all free at some point, potentially hard 5.11. Definitely will go all clean on next ascent. End at hanging belay, one new 3/8 by 3.5" bolt added to belay to augment dilapidated anchors/leeper hangers. 60'

P3- Stellar beak/ small gear seam up the vertical to slightly overhanging face. One rivet on pitch, a new rivet was placed adjacent to it. This was the only rivet mentioned in the original topo so the only one replaced. One 3/8 by 3.5" and one 3/8 by 1.5 bolt added to belay to replace old bolts.

P4- Beak seam to great C1 wideness with wild roof moves, one 3/8 by 1.5" bolt added to anchor. There were rivets on this pitch not mentioned in the original topo, so none were replaced and are old and moderately suspect.

P5- Easy free climbing leads to summit.

Descent - Rap the route

Location

The route is on the SW aspect of River Tower. Find the start by hiking up to the obvious prow and peeking around the corner to the south. If you need more help than that, hit yourself in the head with your hammer and hope you don't survive.

Protection

Beaks helpful in lieu of knifeblades. Standard fishers aid rack with a couple leeper-z and a few bigger angles. Can leave all the big iron at home. Big cams make life more fun. Off set aliens helpful. As mentioned in the description, each anchor has at least one new bolt to augment the old stuff.

Photos