Type: Aid, Grade IV
FA: Harvey T. Carter & team
Page Views: 27,875 total · 127/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 23, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a great introduction to the bigger towers of the Fishers. The climbing is relatively clean, quick and easy. The exposure is fantastic. This route climbs the left hand arete of King Fisher as viewed from the parkinglot. To reach the route, hike out to the Cobra (just past Ancient Art). From there, hike up the hill past Death of American Democracy, and just below the northeast arete, you'll see the first pitch bolt ladder.

P1- Climb a bolt ladder which used to be very scary, but now has a couple good bolts on it to a hanging belay. P2- Climb a fun 5.8 chimney with lots of holds and good gear. Pitch 1 and 2 can easily be combined. P3- This is the crux pitch and has fun aid moves with a few mantle moves onto dirty, sloping ledges. The last 20 feet before the belay is the crux and climbs some scary, old fixed gear. P4- Climb the bolt ladder, with one hook move up to the roof where the rock changes from Cutler to Moenkopi Sandstone. Climb up and left over the roof and onto the caprock. Above the roof there is a short bolt ladder to a huge belay ledge. P5- The last pitch free climbs a short hand crack to a short 5.8 chimney to the summit.

To descend, rappel the route

Protection

Two sets of cams from tiny to #4 camalot, Micro Nuts and stoppers. Bring a big hook also.

Photos