Type: Trad, Aid, 4 pitches
FA: FA: Sibley and Roos 1969
Page Views: 197,809 total · 727/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Oct 18, 2001 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is by far the most popular route in the Fisher Towers, and a moderate classic. The route goes at 5.8 A0 if yarding on bolts, or can be free climbed at well protected 5.10.

P1. Climb easy 5.4 broken rock to a huge ledge. If you are free climbing the route, belay here to avoid rope drag. Climb a 4 bolt ladder to a big belay ledge at the base of a chimney. 5.10, 120 feet.

P2. Climb a really fun and well protected 5.8 mud chimney for about 90 feet to a belay on the right.

P3. Climb a short steep crack to a 3 bolt ladder. 5.7 A0 or 5.10, 40 feet.

P4. This is one of the coolest pitches in the desert. Walk 20 feet along the sidewalk(narrow extremely exposed ledge). Mantle awkwardly onto the diving board, and walk to the base of the corkscrew. Clip 4 bolts/drilled angles en route to the summit.

To descend, lower back to the diving board, and reverse the sidewalk. Rappel to the party ledge, and then make a double rope rap to the ground (60m ropes).  It is also possible to rappel the route with a 70m rope, but it is not recommended as you'll be a nuisance and danger to ascending parties.

Protection Suggest change

1 set of cams to 3 inches, 1 set of stoppers, first 5 tricams are nice, quickdraws. The first, third, and 4th pitches have old bolts and drilled angles.

Sam Sez Suggest change

Ancient Art's Stolen Chimney is not a sport climb and should not be attempted by any climber who is not very comfortable climbing 5.10.

There are places on each pitch where if you fall you will likely die. At the very least you will be badly hurt.

The replaced bolts are nothing more than than a modern version of what the original ascent party had. They can be manipulated by people or damaged by the elements in such a way that they are not safe.

For this reason any climber attempting this route, or any other non-sport climb for that matter, should assume that their most trusted piece of protection is their ability to NOT fall. Climbing is dangerous. Its even more dangerous in the Fisher Towers. Do not approach this route with a sense that it is easy.

—Sam Lightner, Jr.