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Description

This interesting-looking rock, about 150 feet high, can be seen from the Titan, or Cottontail, as the flat-toppped boxy fin with the hole, located a mile down in the wash to the west. First ascent was by Cameron Burns et al, at a standard Cam Burns A1 5.4 or so, (this is described in Bjorny's guide). Ralph Burns and I freed this in early spring 2002. First free ascent? It's a fun climb on mostly fine rock, away from the crowds, with great views of the Fishers.
Start on the east arete.1. Climb easy cracks for twenty five feet to a ledge. From here free past a short bolt ladder to a larger ledge, 5.10, with one or two very fragile holds. 2. Climb up and right to an obvious roof crack. Up this (tight hands) to easier ground and a final 5.9 move. 5.11-. On pitch two, tape, or expect some big gobies. Gear: include a small selection of nuts, and a couple sets of cams up to about 4". Maybe extra 1-2" cams. A few quick draws. Definitely no pins or hammer needed! Rap pins on the summit were placed in slightly crunchy rock, but we backed them up with a bomber (really!) jammed knot a bit further back from the edge in a nice deep crack. Bring a couple extra slings to maybe leave up here. A midsize Hex or large nut would also work for the squeamish.
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Getting There

The somewhat lenghy approach is covered in Bjornstad's guide. Follow the trail to just past Cottontail, then hang a right down the gully; after a half-mile or so, head up and over the ridge to the south into the next gully, and voila. This point may actually be accessible from Onion Creek more easily, but it would be hard to figure out where to start from.

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Photos

Keith, I didn't place a single bolt on this job, sorry. Jon placed a few. I banged in 2 pins for the rap off the top. That's all. Cam Jun 22, 2008
karcbr  
Alan "Heavy Duty" Stevenson free soloed this pile back in the 90's and I remember him complaining about Cameron Burns' bolting job being definitely undersized and unnecessary. Jun 2, 2008

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