Type: Trad, Aid, 700 ft, 10 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Ed Webster 1978?
Page Views: 6,342 total · 29/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Oct 17, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Route begins on the NW ridge of Cottontail Tower right off the trail.

P1- Follow the obvious feature straight up past one old bolt and a difficult roof mantle until you reach a large ledge and 3 bolt anchor. All clean, gear up to 4 inches (5.10+ C1+)

P2- Continue up and right past a poorly protected wide slot, continue via mixed free and aid to a 2 bolt station at the right edge of a small roof. Belay can (and should) be backed up with a .5 inch cam. (5.10 C2)

P3- Engineer moves right to the base of an old bolt ladder, follow this straight up to a new 3/8 inch bolt and negotiate the final move onto a great ledge with a 3 bolt anchor. (A2)

P4- Head around the corner and traverse the West face on run out moderate terrain, drop into an amazing bivy cave with a 3 bolt anchor, continue another 20 meters along the traverse past two old bolts on the "sidewalk" until it is possible to clip another 3 bolt anchor. No gear, two bolts. (5.8)

P5- Hoist your satchel, free climb left and up to an old bolt, mantle onto a shelf, mantle again, follow a sustained and discontinous crack system straight up passing 3 more old bolts. Continue slightly left into a crack to a great stance at a 3 bolt anchor. This pitch is requisite of numerous sawed angles, and a range of cams to 3 inches. Amazing pitch. (A3+)

P6- Follow the wide crack to the summit ridge and build a natural anchor. Take a couple larger cams and save a 3 inch for the belay. (5.9)

P7- Follow the ridge past a gap and fixed gear to a bolted belay.

P8- Head right of the belay, follow old bolts and new bolt studs up to a difficult and run out mantle move. Gain the shelf and find much needed gear. Continue up to a spectacular ledge with a 3 bolt anchor. (5.11R A2)

P9- Exit the right side of the ledge and negotiate your way right into a wide fluting, alternate aid moves and free moves past many old bolts to the summit ridge. Contemplate how Webster drilled this on lead. Locate and estrablish a great thread belay.

P10- Climb around to the east to gain the ridge or crawl through the hole (preferable), continue along the exposed ridge well around the east side of the summit block. Locate a wide right leaning crack. Follow this up to an old manky bolt, aid the lip and step onto the summit. The anchor consists of one good hangerless bolt, one pin and an old 1/4 inch. It is directly above the rap stations. Take a four inch cam. (5.6 C1)

Protection

Brer Rabbit is an excellant line comprised of mostly solid rock. The protection bolts are mostly all star drives and many are worn far out of the rock. A full range of gear is requisite. Double TCU's to #4 cams, and an extensive pin rack with emphasis on big sawed angles and regular angles up to #6 or #7 but some small iron as well. Nuts of any size proved fairly useless. Keyhole hangers and or regular hangers would be a great addition for some new bolt studs on the 8th pitch. Most anchors are bolted and contain at least one good 3/8 inch bolt amongst a pile of old mank, exceptions are the top of pitches 6 and 8,and the summit block which are all fairly old hardware. The natural anchors require some creative threading but are solid.

Photos