Type: Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Harvey T. Carter and Steve Kentz
Page Views: 8,460 total · 56/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Feb 8, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Fantasia begins on the south side of the formation directly across from the Finger of Fate. This is the easiest line on the Oracle but it is not easy.

Major sections of this route require you to climb on fixed protection that is OLD and SUSPECT and sometimes missing altogether. Ben took a 15 footer when a drilled pin failed under body weight on the last pitch. We also had a bolt fail with light testing.

I would recommend that you not go up there without a bolt kit or at least a long stick clip. If you decide against them, bring the mental strength of Stevie Haston. The mandatory free climbing is no lovefest either, weighing in at 5.10- R.

Still, it’s a great tower!

Pitch 1 – Boulder 20 feet up a corner and then climb a wide crack left of a mud draped chimney. Step right at the top and climb up to a fixed anchor. (5.9, C2)

Pitch 2 – Climb the bolt ladder above. There are a few free moves on this pitch including an airy mantle that is easy but not well protected. Belay from a fixed anchor on a small ledge on the left side of the ridge. (5.8, C1)

Pitch 3 – Continue on bolts, then make a few dirty free moves and gain a grungy crack that leads to the top of the ridge. (5.9 dirty, C2)

Pitch 4 – Climb along the top of the ridge past an old specter that‘s been pounded into a crack and then keeping right. You will want a couple cord-o-lettes to sling around features. Belay at an hourglass in the rock from long tie-offs. (5.7, C0)

Pitch 5 – Continue along the right side of the ridge to a bolt. From here chimney up to another bolt and traverse farther still, over some wild terrain, to a crack that leads to a bolted anchor. (5.7, C2)

Pitch 6 - Move the belay along an airy ledge to a pair of hidden bolts and rappel to another anchor in the notch. (Class 4)

Pitch 7 – Climb unprotected for 50 feet on slopers. Continue past an old anchor to a pair of good bolts. (5.10- R) (a stick clip makes the last 15 feet a questionable toprope)

Pitch 8 – Rope trickery off the belay leads to an manky bolt ladder and the summit. Some bolts are missing on this pitch so plan accordingly. (5.9, C2)

Descent – Rappel into the notch and then down the Gastrointestinal Chimney which is on the east (approach trail) side.

NOTE: The first rappel into the chimney is slightly over 60 meters. We made it with 60s but it required some serious shenanigans. 65 meter ropes are recommended. If you don’t have them, be prepared to extend the anchor.

Location

This route is easily approached using the trail for the Titan's Finger of Fate.

Protection

Much of this route is fixed. I recommend:

A double set of cams up to 3” plus a few larger ones.
A set of the smaller tri-cams.
A set of nuts.
Tie-offs and butterfly rivet hangers.
A couple cord-o-lettes for tying off on the ridge as well as for anchors.
Several screamers.
A bolt kit or long stick clip.
65 meter ropes

Photos