Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: George Lowe, Eric Eliason, 1968
Page Views: 4,760 total · 26/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on Feb 29, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Ruckmans only give this one star, but I gave it two if only because it is a great off-width test piece. I climbed this first back in the early 80's, and again last spring in March, when it was beautiful, sunny and surprisingly warm. The first pitch is a cruise up to the two-bolt belay. From here the crack lulls you in with a couple of good jams, but as it angles left and steepens, it widens to just beyond good hand-stacks and requires strenous arm-bars and knee stuffs. If you have plenty of big stuff you can zip it up with pro, but it remains sustained to the top few feet where it again closes to a reasonable width. Enjoy and become the off-width master!


Bring a full rack minus the micros, heavy on the big stuff (up to 6") for the second pitch.
Vince Romney
Vince Romney  
This would bee the large, left-angled crack on the east side of the Egg fomration. The first few moves to the bottom crack on the first pitch are unprotected, but easy. Jul 26, 2004
electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
a good grunt. old school 5.9 Jan 25, 2006
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Sweet route. It has a little of everything. Probably my favorite on the Egg. Apr 8, 2006
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
Agree with Troy. Nothing bigger than a 3 camalot is required...placements in deep are sufficient. Oct 28, 2006
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Agree on the grunt and not needing anything bigger than 3 cam - how often do you find an OW that doesn't require huge cams? Oct 2, 2008
Originally called the Dog Leg in Smith's Wasatch Granite Book. P1 was 5.6 P2 face was 5.8 and the offwidth was 5.9.

Cheers Sep 2, 2010
electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
just did this one again. Heads up climbing right off the
belay with minimal pro maybe 5.8ish. for the meat of the crack
i went left side in with the crux being getting past a constriction
about 10-15 feet into the main crack and eases up after the big
chicken head on the right side of the crack.
i got the feeling that 9+ was the high end limit of grades given
at the time of the f.a. and know of some 10+ crack climbers
who got shut down on this rig. as stated previously, the route
protects adequately with finger and hand size pro
and should be on any local self respecting crack climbers radar. Mar 22, 2011
EAS Fett
Park City, UT
EAS Fett   Park City, UT
Bring a #4 if you dont like reaching deep into the crack for smaller pro. I also found some good gear in the flaring crack at the start of the second pitch. Some good quality rock and a stout 5.9+, i wonder why lol. Oct 17, 2011
Ben Folsom
Ben Folsom  
Good done in one pitch from the ground. I agree with Fett and was happy to have a #4. Lots of great crack climbing on this. Oct 17, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
I was "blown" away by the quality of this line. Obviously the most prominent line on the egg and a quality one. Only one star Brett and Stuart? Stingy choice in my opinion. But I enjoy cracks that require full body intimacy. Tough flailing was enjoyed by all 3 members of our party with the crux being the first 15 feet of the crack. Don't even think about bringing a #5 camalot, and even bringing the #3 or #4 camalots are worthless. I had 2 of each on my harness when I started up and they were still there when I reached the anchor. Definitely do it in one pitch. Thank you Mr. Lowe. Mar 24, 2012
Salt Lake City, Utah
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
Classic!!!! Must do off-width in LCC, nothing like getting your butt handed to you by old school 5.9+! Definitely protects well with smaller gear, but I liked having a #3 and #4. Apr 8, 2012
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
**** Because it is a stand out pitch in the Wasatch. On par with Gordon's Hangover for 5.9+ greatness. Mar 19, 2013
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
Regarding whether one should haul up big gear: .75-#3 camalots protect just fine for much of the route (I took 2 of each; used them all). A few smaller pieces are nice. I also took a #4 and a #5 camalot, and I was glad I had them. They are useful to bump up as you climb for added security, but they are by no means necessary to climb the route safely.

We did it in one pitch, which I recommend. Also, don't fall from the first 15' of pitch two - insecure flared crack with bad pro.

All in all, a fantastic climb. Oct 26, 2013
Jim Howe
Salt Lake city
Jim Howe   Salt Lake city
Doing the route in 1 pitch gave me lots of rope drag despite long runners and just 3 clips in the first half. The crux became pulling up rope, Next time I'd break it up. its a LCC classic. May 23, 2016
I think as you get more experienced these kind of problems will become less of an issue. May 23, 2016
bheller   SL UT
Yeah, Strong Jim...what a noob;) May 25, 2016
Jim you might also ask your local climbing shop to special order some longer slings. I think you will find them very understanding and helpful.
Also over the urinal at the climbing gym I believe I saw a class offered on runners and slings. Good luck in your new climbing career. Jun 5, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
Classic! The linkup would be a pretty sweet package deal, but drag will be an issue if you don't read the route well. Personally I found a single rack to 3 and double 4's offered great protection on the second pitch. I lugged a 6 up there and did use it to bump and protect the crux moves, but ended up taking it with me so that I could climb in the crack where it was protecting me. Using small pro keeps the wider sections of the crack open for you. That being said I would at least bring one 4 if I did it again. Also Id save a #2 for the top or double up. could easily take a double rack of hand size gear. That chicken head was so damn glorious. By no means am I an OW guy, but this one is totally worth the grunt and glory! Oct 24, 2016
Danie White
Danie White   SLC, UT
Cool climb. I especially liked that improbable spike hanging down at the beginning of the P2 crack. Some really neat chicken heads as well! For what it’s worth, I liked having a #4 to bump — and then I left behind bomber pieces in the constrictions — but you could certainly get by safely without. I also got an orange metolius in the flare before the P2 crack opens up and it seemed like it would have held. I gave It some tugs. Nov 8, 2018